How Shanghai Helped Shape China’s Coffee Culture

Ever wondered how coffee went from being called 'kāfēi'—or even 'kēfēi' —to becoming a staple in modern Chinese urban life? The journey began in treaty-port Shanghai, where foreign ideas and flavors first took root among locals curious, skeptical, and eventually enchanted by the brew.

By the 1900s, Shanghai had already seen coffee introduced in the foreign concessions, but it wasn’t until the 1920s–30s that dedicated coffeehouses flourished, transforming the city’s social and cultural fabric. Early drinkers famously complained it tasted like cough syrup—but over time, coffee became intertwined with Western lifestyles, romance, and literature.

The Early Names and Tastes of Coffee in China

Coffee first arrived in China as a foreign curiosity. In its earliest days, it went by a host of transliterated and invented names, including the peculiar 'kēfēi' , which roughly translates as 'knock fat'. The more familiar 'kāfēi' also emerged during this period, gradually becoming the standard term.

Early tastings didn’t go smoothly. Many first-time Chinese drinkers in Shanghai—often adventurous locals trying out Western trends—found the bitter brew unpleasant. Some remarked it tasted remarkably like cough medicine, a far cry from today’s crafted espresso or pour-over experiences.

Coffee Arrives with the Concessions and Western Food

The development of Shanghai’s coffee culture is inseparable from the establishment of foreign concessions after the city’s opening as a treaty port. Within the British and French Concessions, coffee was initially served not in standalone cafés but in Western restaurants, which functioned as early de facto coffeehouses.

As Western dining became more common in Shanghai during the late 19th and early 20th centuries, so too did the acceptance of coffee. By the time poet and writer Zhu Wenbing wrote about coffee in his 1909 collection Shanghai Bamboo Branch Lyrics, the drink was already part of the city’s cultural vocabulary. Likewise, early 20th-century writer Zhou Shoujuan referenced coffee in his ci poetry, likening its bitterness to the taste of longing—a poetic nod that tied coffee to themes of love and melancholy in traditional Chinese literature.

The Rise of Dedicated Coffeehouses in 1920s–30s Shanghai

Coffeehouses as distinct venues began appearing in Shanghai around the late 1920s and early 1930s. Initially designed for the leisure and social needs of the foreign resident population, these establishments quickly attracted local patrons as well.

Early coffeehouses were often found along major commercial streets such as Nanjing Road, Avenue Joffre (now Huaihai Road), North Sichuan Road, and Avenue du Roi Albert (now Yan’an Road West). Each area developed its own café culture, offering spaces that blended Western architecture and social norms with local adaptation.

Over time, these coffeehouses evolved into more than just places to drink coffee—they became key urban 'public spaces'. Lovers met for dates, intellectuals and writers gathered to work, and the city’s literary scene flourished within their walls. Notable authors like Lin Huiyin and Wen Zichuan wrote fictional stories set in cafés, while essayist Zhang Ruogu titled an entire collection Coffee Chats. These venues helped shape modern Shanghai’s identity as a cosmopolitan hub.

The Legacy and Transition to Modern Chains

Many of the iconic, individually styled coffeehouses that once defined Shanghai’s streets—on Nanjing Road, Huaihai Road, North Sichuan Road, and Yan’an Road West—have since disappeared, lost to time and urban change. Their role, however, has been largely supplanted by international chain cafés that continue to serve as social and working spaces for locals and visitors alike.

Though the historic cafés are gone, the cultural foundation they laid—where coffee met literature, love, and Western modernity—remains a key chapter in China’s coffee story.

Frequently Asked Questions

What was the earliest name for coffee in China?

Early transliterated names for coffee in China included 'kāfēi' and the more unusual 'kēfēi' , meaning something like 'knock fat'. Over time, 'kāfēi' became the standard term used today.

When did coffee first appear in Shanghai?

Coffee was introduced to Shanghai during the city’s opening as a treaty port, particularly within the British and French Concessions. It was initially served in Western restaurants before dedicated coffeehouses emerged.

Why did early Chinese drinkers dislike coffee?

Many first-time drinkers in early 20th-century Shanghai found coffee unpleasantly bitter, with some comparing the taste to cough syrup. This reaction was common among those unaccustomed to the flavor profile of black coffee.

What role did coffeehouses play in 1920s–30s Shanghai?

Coffeehouses became important public spaces where people met, worked, and socialized. They hosted writers, artists, and lovers, and were featured in literary works, contributing to Shanghai’s modern, cosmopolitan identity.

Are there any original historic coffeehouses left in Shanghai?

Most of the distinctive, individually run coffeehouses from the 1920s–40s have disappeared. They have been replaced by modern international coffee chains that continue the tradition of public social spaces.

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