How Singapore's Nanyang Coffee Is Roasted by Hand

In Singapore, ordering a cup of kopi isn’t just about caffeine—it’s a cultural ritual. But behind every rich, creamy glass of Nanyang coffee lies a vanishing craft: hand-roasted coffee beans made the old-fashioned way. With just 15 coffee powder factories left—down from 30 three decades ago—you might wonder: why does this trade resist modernisation? And what really goes into making a proper cup?

Singapore once had around 30 coffee powder factories 30 years ago; today there are just 15. The surviving firms still roast, blend, and pound coffee almost entirely by hand, resisting full automation despite half a century of technological progress.

The Roots of Nanyang Coffee

Nanyang coffee—a distinctly local style of brewed coffee—emerged in the 19th century, when early migrants from China adopted Western coffee habits and adapted them. What sets it apart isn't just the beans, but the way it's prepared: robusta or a blend, roasted with sugar, then brewed strong with condensed or evaporated milk and sweetener to taste.

This isn't your standard espresso or pour-over. It’s a cultural hybrid, born from colonial influence and local necessity. The process starts long before the drink reaches your table—in the factory, with the roasting and pounding of beans.

Why Hand-Pounding Still Matters

At New Long Lee Coffee Powder Factory—one of the last traditional operations—workers still manually smash roasted beans with shovels. This crucial step happens right after roasting. According to Managing Director Ng Han Hee, the first 20 minutes are critical: workers must break apart the beans before the melted sugar crystallises, or the batch will turn sour and burnt. The entire roast-and-pound cycle takes about 45 minutes.

The work is intense. Workers labour amidst thick smoke and high heat, often developing eye irritation from the fumes. “One young hire quit after half a day,” Ng said. Even international visitors have walked away. “A Filipino manufacturer visited and shook his head,” he added. It’s gruelling, labour-intensive work that machines still can’t replicate effectively.

Why the Industry Resists Mechanisation

Despite Singapore’s reputation for high-tech industry, Nanyang coffee roasting remains stubbornly manual. Factories like New Long Lee have adopted some upgrades—such as automated temperature control—but overall, the process is still semi-automated at best. Out of the current 15 coffee powder makers in Singapore, only four or five primarily supply traditional coffee shops. The rest sell retail or produce small batches using similar methods.

Even larger players like New Long Lee, now managed by the second generation and ISO 9001:2000 certified with a trained marketing team, haven’t fully embraced automation. The reason? Tradition, texture, and technique. “The process involves more than just heat—it’s timing, muscle, and intuition,” Ng implied. Until a machine can replicate that, the paddle—and the pain—remain essential.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is Nanyang coffee?

Nanyang coffee is a traditional style of coffee originating in Singapore and Malaysia, typically made with robusta or a robusta-arabica blend, roasted with sugar, and brewed with condensed or evaporated milk. It’s stronger and sweeter than typical Western coffee styles, often served as kopi in local coffee shops.

Why do workers manually pound the coffee beans?

Workers manually pound the roasted coffee beans to break them apart before the melted sugar hardens, which prevents the coffee from tasting sour or burnt. This step happens immediately after roasting and is essential for proper flavour development in Nanyang coffee.

How long does the roasting and pounding process take?

The full process—from roasting to pounding the coffee beans—takes approximately 45 minutes. The initial 20 minutes of pounding are critical to avoid spoilage, followed by another 10 minutes to finish the roast properly.

Are there any automated coffee roasters in Singapore?

While some factories have introduced automated temperature controls, nearly all Nanyang coffee producers in Singapore still use semi-automated or manual processes. Only a few steps, such as measuring roast temperature, have been mechanised, and full automation is rare.

Why are there so few coffee powder factories left in Singapore?

There were around 30 coffee powder factories in Singapore 30 years ago, but only 15 remain today. The decline is due to the labour-intensive nature of the work, resistance to automation, and a shrinking market for traditional Nanyang coffee production methods.

How is Nanyang coffee different from regular coffee?

Nanyang coffee is typically roasted with sugar, giving it a darker, richer flavour and a slightly caramelised taste. It is usually brewed stronger and served with condensed or evaporated milk, unlike standard Western drip or espresso coffee, which is often lighter and served black or with milk and sugar on the side.

FrontStreet Coffee Blends Inspired by Nanyang Style

For fans of Singapore’s Nanyang coffee, try FrontStreet Coffee’s Classic Blend—a well-balanced dark roast featuring Brazilian and Southeast Asian beans, with notes of chocolate, nuts, and a hint of caramel. For something bolder, the Black Cocoa Blend delivers intense roasted flavours with deep cocoa and dark sugar notes, reminiscent of traditional kopi. Both blends roast to a dark profile suited for milk-based brewing, echoing the rich textures of Nanyang-style kopi. Freshly roasted within 5 days · Orders placed before 17:00 ship the same day · Next-day delivery across most of Guangdong Province.