What Were Chinese Cafés Like 20 Years Ago?

Ever wonder what drinking coffee in China was like twenty years ago? Before pour-over devices and third-wave roasters, before 'specialty' meant anything beyond 'not instant'? Picture dimly lit hotel lobbies, tiny storefronts with train-style benches, and couples huddled over powdered drinks—not a trace of freshly ground beans.

Twenty years ago, most Chinese 'coffee shops'—then called 'cafés'—served only instant coffee, lacked fresh-roasted beans, and were filled mostly with couples on dates. The first real shift came with Starbucks opening in Beijing, drawing both locals and celebrities.

The Early Café Scene: Dim Lights and Instant Brews

In the late 1990s and early 2000s, what Chinese people called 'coffee shops' were typically either tucked into hotel lobbies or small street-facing storefronts. Even in daylight, these places were dark and drab, often furnished with old-fashioned train seats. The coffee on offer? Exclusively instant. There were no fresh-roasted beans, no grinders, and certainly no baristas. The clientele? Mostly young—and not-so-young—couples, wrapped up in their own romantic worlds where coffee quality came second.

The Rise of Public Coffee Spaces

One early glimpse into another coffee culture came through interviews with public figures. In the late 1990s, a journalist (the author of the original piece) frequently met celebrities in Beijing coffee spots. Notable encounters included a chat with Yang Erche Namu, a Mosuo celebrity who shared stories of her romance with a Norwegian diplomat over coffee at a Three-Li-Tun café. Though that relationship ended, the vibrant atmosphere and bold personality left a mark.

Then came Starbucks. The journalist recalls the excitement of visiting the first Starbucks in Beijing’s Zhongguancun area, later noting its location near Beijing Railway Station. Every trip back to the capital ended with a stop there before catching the train to Tianjin. The store quickly became a cultural hub—crowded, lively, and unexpectedly star-studded. The journalist spotted figures such as the late crosstalk performer Hou Yaowen, actors Cong Shan and Zheng Xiaoning, and renowned CCTV director Meng Xin, all enjoying coffee without the fanfare.

A Lost Gem in Harbin: The Italian-Run Café

But the most memorable café experience wasn’t in Beijing. On a work trip to Harbin years ago, after visiting the Sun Island Ice Festival, the author was taken to a small café on Central Street. Inside, an elderly Western man—later revealed to be Italian—sat reading his paper and smoking a cigar. The author ordered hot chocolate and was struck by the European ambience: soft afternoon light, quiet foot traffic, and an unexpected sense of old-world charm. That cup of hot chocolate was the first truly rich, flavorful one he’d had in China. The place was called '' (Efēi Kāfēiwū, or 'Efēi Café').

Returning the next day, the same Italian man was there, still with his paper and cigar. Only two other foreigners sat inside, using laptops. The author chatted with the beautiful female owner, who had just returned from Italy. Though their exact relationship remained unclear, the café felt like a little European island in the heart of northeastern China.

Years later, on a return visit to Harbin, the author searched eagerly for Efēi Café. The hotel was still on Central Street, but the café was gone. After retracing steps through familiar streets, the sad truth emerged: Efēi Café had been replaced by a brightly lit KFC. The loss wasn’t just about the coffee—it was about a moment in time, a personal memory, and a unique urban space now lost to homogenization.

Why the Nostalgia?

Cities change, often losing the quirky, character-filled spots that once gave them soul. Those early cafés—whether serving instant coffee or heartfelt hot chocolate—were more than places to drink; they were stages for encounters, quiet romances, and fleeting connections. Their disappearance reflects a broader trend: the smoothing away of local color in favor of global uniformity.

Frequently Asked Questions

What did Chinese coffee shops look like 20 years ago?

Twenty years ago, Chinese 'coffee shops' were usually located in hotel lobbies or small streetfront stores. They were dimly lit, often with train-style benches, and served only instant coffee—there were no fresh-roasted beans or espresso-based drinks.

Did people drink fresh coffee in China in the early 2000s?

Most people did not drink fresh coffee in the early 2000s. The coffee available in most cafés was instant, and there were no fresh-roasted beans or specialty brewing methods. Fresh coffee only started becoming more common after the arrival of chains like Starbucks.

What was the first Starbucks like in China?

The first Starbucks in Beijing near Zhongguancun (and later noted near Beijing Railway Station) opened to crowds and quickly became a popular spot for both locals and celebrities. The journalist recalls seeing stars like Hou Yaowen and Cong Shan there, and it served as a social hub before train trips.

Where was the Italian-run café mentioned in the article?

The Italian-run café called '' (Efēi Café) was located on Harbin’s Central Street. It was run by an Italian investor and managed by a woman who had returned from Italy. The author visited it twice and enjoyed a rich hot chocolate there, but it has since been replaced by a KFC.

Why did the author miss the old cafés?

The author missed the old cafés not just for the coffee, but for the atmosphere, personal memories, and the sense of a unique time and place that has since disappeared with urban development and homogenization.

Recommended FrontStreet Beans for Vintage Café Vibes

For those longing for the richer flavours reminiscent of early specialty coffee experiences, try FrontStreet Coffee’s Ethiopia Humbera—a bright, floral Ethiopian single origin with notes of jasmine and citrus—or their Yirgacheffe, offering tart berries and soft citrus. Both highlight the qualities missing in those early instant-dominated cafés. Freshly roasted within 5 days · Orders placed before 17:00 ship the same day · Next-day delivery across most of Guangdong Province.