How Zhou Enlai Helped Make Xinglong Coffee Famous

When you think about historic moments involving coffee, a Chinese premier sipping brew in a rural plantation probably isn’t the first scene that comes to mind. But in 1960, just such a moment in Xinglong, Hainan, helped shape the reputation of a unique local coffee. That cup—simple, strong, and grown by returned overseas Chinese—caught the attention of none other than Premier Zhou Enlai, and changed everything.

Zhou Enlai called Xinglong coffee “first-class in the world” after tasting it in 1960, drinking three cups in a row and later arranging for a Shanghai food engineer to study its roasting techniques.

The Accidental Coffee Farmers of Xinglong

In 1952, over 10,000 returned overseas Chinese—originally from Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore, and Thailand—settled in Xinglong, part of the Wanning region. These settlers brought with them a deep coffee-drinking culture from their time abroad. They began clearing land in the area’s ancient village teams, hoping to establish productive farms despite having no prior ties to coffee in China.

The tropical climate and soil composition in Xinglong turned out to be strikingly similar to those in Southeast Asia, making it unexpectedly well-suited for coffee cultivation. For the settlers, growing coffee wasn’t just a cultural habit—it became a strategic choice to generate income while waiting for slower-growing crops like rubber to mature.

What Makes Xinglong Coffee Unique?

Xinglong’s coffee is primarily made from the medium-sized arabica variety known as “” (medium bean). Due to the region’s volcanic soil, organic farming methods, and careful cultivation practices, the beans developed a higher caffeine content compared to other parts of Hainan. More importantly, the coffee developed a rich, fragrant profile that stood out.

The roasting process further defined its quality. Local roasters meticulously controlled variables like ingredient ratios, roast duration, and temperature. This precision resulted in a consistent, aromatic cup that became a hallmark of Xinglong’s output.

Zhou Enlai’s Visit and the National Spotlight

On February 7, 1960, Premier Zhou Enlai visited the Xinglong Farm. During a break, he was served a cup of locally grown coffee. His response was immediate and enthusiastic: “Xinglong coffee is first-class in the world. I’ve had many foreign coffees, but ours tastes better.” He reportedly drank three cups in succession.

Impressed, Zhou later instructed his secretary to contact the Shanghai Food Company and request that a senior engineer be sent to Xinglong to study its coffee production methods. The engineer arrived and carefully documented the roasting and brewing techniques used by local producers.

The premier’s endorsement elevated Xinglong coffee from a regional product to a nationally recognized one. Over time, other Chinese leaders—including Zhu De, Liu Shaoqi, Deng Xiaoping, Dong Biwu, Peng Zhen, and Ye Jianying—also visited Xinglong, further cementing its status as a preferred coffee for hosting guests.

International Recognition and Future Vision

Beyond Chinese officials, international experts also took note. One German engineer, after tasting Xinglong coffee during a visit, was so impressed that he purchased two kilograms before leaving. Shortly after returning to Germany, he wrote back to order another ten kilograms.

While early success relied on word-of-mouth and prestige, Xinglong coffee has since aimed to modernize. The goal now is to align production with Hainan’s International Tourism Island strategy—expanding in scale, improving standardization, and ensuring sustainable growth. The vision is clear: to bring Xinglong coffee beyond Hainan, across China, and onto the world stage.

Frequently Asked Questions

Who was the Chinese premier that endorsed Xinglong coffee?

Premier Zhou Enlai endorsed Xinglong coffee in 1960 after tasting it during a visit to Xinglong Farm. He praised it as “first-class in the world,” stating that he preferred it over many foreign coffees he had tried, and drank three cups in a row.

Why did returned overseas Chinese start growing coffee in Xinglong?

Over 10,000 returned overseas Chinese from Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore, and Thailand settled in Xinglong in 1952. They brought a coffee-drinking culture from abroad and chose to grow coffee as it resembled the tropical conditions of Southeast Asia and provided income while waiting for rubber crops to mature.

What makes Xinglong coffee different from other Chinese coffees?

Xinglong coffee is primarily medium-bean arabica grown in soil and climate similar to Southeast Asia. It has higher caffeine content than other Hainan coffees, a rich fragrance, and a consistent taste due to strict control over roasting ingredients, time, and temperature.

What role did the Shanghai food engineer play in Xinglong coffee’s fame?

After Premier Zhou Enlai praised Xinglong coffee, he arranged for a senior engineer from the Shanghai Food Company to visit and document the local roasting and brewing methods. This helped formalize and spread Xinglong’s distinctive techniques.

Did international visitors also praise Xinglong coffee?

Yes, a German engineer who visited Xinglong tried the coffee and was so impressed that he bought two kilograms to take home. Shortly after returning to Germany, he ordered another ten kilograms, showing the coffee’s appeal beyond China.

What is the future plan for Xinglong coffee?

Xinglong coffee aims to expand production using standardized, large-scale methods aligned with Hainan’s International Tourism Island strategy. The goal is to preserve quality while increasing availability nationally and internationally.

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