The role of Robusta beans in Italian Coffee blending A comparison of the proportion of Coffee blending

Original: Robusta's Rehab

Address: Robusta's Rehab, http://www.coffeegeek.com/opinions/cafestage/02-01-2006.

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It was hard to miss the "100 Arabica" sign at theMolinari Caff è booth during the Specialty Coffee Association of America's (SCAA) conference in Seattle in 2005. But when asked about his all-arabica blend, Fabrizio Mengoli, Molinari's export manager, shrugged his shoulders. "We have more than 100years in coffee," he said, "and we started to offer 100percent arabica just this year because of the pressure. Our experience and philosophy is to mix between arabica and robusta. But we are in the market, and people asked to have 100percent arabica, so we decided to play the game."

During the annual meeting of the American Special Coffee Association in Seattle in 2005, the booth of Caffe Molinari, a century-old Italian company, displayed an eye-catching logo, 100% Arabica, pure Arabica mix. But when asked about the logo, the company's export manager, Mr. Fabricio Montgory, shrugged his shoulders and said, "We've been in the coffee industry for more than a hundred years, but only this year. We began to offer pure Arabica coffee under pressure from our customers. Our experience and philosophy of coffee tells us that part of Luodou is used in Italian coffee. But in order to meet the requirements of the market, we have to join this 100% Arabica game.)

Robusta has traditionally been used in Italian espresso blends, though that is changing, especially because of Ernesto Illy's strong stance against its use. But many European roasters show little of the anti-robusta passion expressed by their American counterparts. No one will ever accuse coffee people of lacking opinions, but there are few subjects that will turn up an American roaster's pressurestat more quickly than the mention of robusta.

In the tradition of Italian coffee, Luodou has always been used to mix Italian coffee. However, this situation is changing because of Ernesto Illy's strong opposition to Luo Dou. But many coffee roasters in Europe are not as resistant to Luodou as their American counterparts. No one will blame those who lack a point of view, but there are other problems that trigger more pressure on American bakers than Luo Dou.)

Its detractors will tell you that the only possible reason anyone would use a robusta in an espresso blend is to save money, and that this is the only basis for the Italians' interest in the stuff. They will dismiss it as a strategy used by roasters who are trying to produce coffee that can sit on the shelf for weeks, if not months. And they will say that any robusta, no matter how carefully selected, inevitably will add a woody/ rubbery/ tarmac/ cat pee-pee/ moldy basement floor/ liquefied brown paper bag taste to the coffee.

Opponents of the use of Luodou will say that the only reason to use Luodou when mixing espresso is to reduce costs, and that is the only reason Italian roasters are interested. They think the goal is to produce coffee that can be stored for weeks or even months. They will also say that no matter how carefully selected Luodou is, it will undoubtedly bring bad flavors to coffee, such as wood, rubber, asphalt, cat urine, mildew, pulp and so on.)

There is general, though by no means universal, agreement that robusta will produce a more substantial, long-lasting crema when added to an espresso blend, and that the aromatic compounds captured in the bubbles will cause the taste and aroma to linger in the mouth for a long period of time. But detractors will quickly add that this is merely prolonging the torture of the taste they find so offensive.

Although it is not always agreed, it is generally believed that Luodou can make Italian coffee with a stable and long-lasting Krima, while the aroma ingredients in the fine foam can be retained in the mouth for a long time. But opponents will immediately say that this will only prolong the existence of bad tastes.)

The Allure of Robusta

The temptation of Robbins Tadou

Many of robusta's American defenders point to espresso's Italian roots, arguing that their coffees are true to that tradition. They contend that a stable, long-lasting crema is the defining characteristic of espresso-the delivery device that allows the aroma to lastin a way that is not possible with an espresso that lacks a sturdy crema. And they will argue that a discrete amount of a carefully selected robusta, in concert with the right arabicas, will deliver body and crema without being detectable on the palate, while blending the flavors and lowering the acidity in the cup.

Many Luodou guardians in the United States pursue the Italian roots of espresso {espresso}, emphasizing that their coffee is truly traditional Italian coffee. They believe that a stable, long-lasting Krima is a key feature of espresso, espresso. Without this layer of Krima, it is impossible to have the taste of espresso. They also argue that the right amount of Luodou and the right Arabica beans will give the coffee enough taste and Crima, there is no detectable bad taste, and the proper blending can enhance the taste of the coffee and reduce the sour taste of the coffee.)

Let's be clear that (almost) no one suggests that robustas have a place in brewed coffee, and let's agree that there are Italian and American roasters who use it because it is cheaper than arabicas, produces huge crema and has a longshelf life. But there are a number of American roasters who specialize inespresso and use it because they believe it can deliver a desirable quality they just aren't able to get from arabicas. Among these rebels are David Schomer of Espresso Vivace, Dr. Joseph John of Josuma Coffee, Mauro Cipolla of caf é Downs 39, John di Ruocco of Mr. Espresso and Tony Konecny of Victrola Coffee Roasters, a relative newcomer on the Seattle scene.

First of all, we would like to make it clear that almost everyone agrees that Luodou is not suitable for making drip-filtered coffee at all; at the same time, whether in Italy or in the United States, there are some roasters who use Luodou to reduce costs, to make more adequate crema, and to extend the shelf life of coffee beans. But there are still many American roasters who specialize in espresso using Luodou because they believe it can contribute to flavors that Arabica coffee cannot provide. These people include David Schumer of Vivace Coffee, John Joseph of Josuma Coffee, Maori Polo of Dental Coffee 39 leading Coffee, John Locke of Mr. Espresso, Victrola Coffee Company, and Tony Cornini of Seattle Coffee Rookie.)

Another defender of the practice is writer and Coffee Review editor KennethDavids, who says he often uses high-end, wet-processed Indian robustas in his espresso blends and prefers espressos with a 10 percent to 20 percent presence of such coffees. It's important to begin any discussion of this subject by pointing out that the coffees that have given robusta a bad name are extremely poorly processed naturals, Davids observes, and that the robustas he finds attractive are high-end washed robustas from India, Uganda and, recently,Mexico. Davids also is intrigued by the idea of well-processed naturals, but he hasn't yet found one he can recommend.

Defenders of the app include Kenneth Davis, the author and editor-in-chief of the coffee review. Davis says he often uses high-grade Indian water to wash Luodou when blending espresso beans, which he usually uses at a ratio of 10-20%. Davis noted that if any issue about the use of Luodou is to be discussed, it should first be made clear that the first ones that brought a bad reputation to Luodou were those that were handled poorly and naturally, and that Davis was attracted to those well-handled, high-grade Luodou, such as India, Uganda and, more recently, Mexico. Davis is also very interested in well-handled dried Luodou, but has not yet been able to find a variety that he thinks is worth recommending.)

"Robustas are like a black hole of taste in drip coffee," he observes. "They suck energy out of the blend. But in espresso they just function in a different way. In espresso they seem to knit things together, and smooth, and create a kind of resonance. A really good one can contribute positive flavor notes, too. They have a kind of nutty, spicy taste." He says that when asked to develop an espresso blend for a client, he will present four or five choices, and that almost without fail the client will select a blend that includes robusta.

Davis noticed that Luodou is like a black hole in the taste of dripping coffee, absorbing energy from blending. But the performance of Luodou in Italian coffee is completely different. It is like bringing all kinds of flavors together to produce a smooth taste and a resonance. A good Luodou can also bring good flavors, such as' nutty 'and' spicy 'flavors. Davis says that when a client asks him to develop an espresso, he always offers them four or five options, and almost all of them end up with a mix with Luodou.)

Davids emphasizes that he is not knocking all-arabica espressos and points in particular to George Howell's Daterra Farm espresso, which he dubs "exquisite." But he adds that for "a good sturdy blend that will stand up to almost anything a consumer does to it, I find it hard to achieve that without some robustas. They are another arrow in your quiver when you're blending for espresso, and a really useful one."

Davis stressed that he was not attacking pure Arabica espresso. He also highlighted the espresso at Datra Farm in George Havel, which he thought was a very delicate espresso. But he also pointed out that if you want to provide customers with a good espresso that can fully meet their requirements, it is difficult to do so without a certain amount of Luodou. If you want to mix an espresso, it is another arrow in your quiver, a really useful arrow.)

Schomer describes a discussion he had with an Italian roaster during a 1993 trip to Italy. When he asked about the Italian interest in robustas as an ingredient in espresso blends, the roaster explained that Italian gourmet roasters were obsessed with searching out fine robustas that would produce the body and crema associated with them without detracting from the flavor of the arabicas, and that the source of an Italian roaster's robusta was his most closely guarded secret.

Schumer described his discussion with an Italian coffee roaster during a trip to Italy in 1993. When he asked the Italian coffee roaster about why Italians use roasted beans for Italian blended coffee, the Italian roaster explained that Italian boutique coffee roasters are always looking for beans that can increase the taste and surface of the coffee without damaging the taste of Arabica coffee. The sources of these beans are the secrets that Italian coffee roasting companies need to protect the most.)

"Thus began my search for a mild, inoffensive robusta," says Schomer, "and my discovery of an & # 39. Robusta,' hand-cultivated, washed and graded with all the care of a fine arabica." He now considers high-quality robustas an indispensable element in his espresso blends. "Robusta," he offers, "increases the viscosity and life span of the crema, which cradles your arabical flavors in a protective foam to allow them to be enjoyed by your customer. Selection is very critical to avoid woody, astringent or oily flavors. I am looking for monster crema from a robusta with a mild, neutral flavor."

Schumer said, "from that moment I began to look for a soft Luodou that will not spoil the taste of coffee. The Luo beans I found are hand-picked, washed and strictly graded in the same way as any high-quality Arabica coffee beans. In Shumo's Italian coffee beans, high-grade Luodou is already indispensable. Schumer also said that these Luo beans increase the consistency of his espresso made with beans and the retention time of Krima, which protects the aroma of the coffee so that customers can enjoy it. The proper selection of Luodou is crucial to avoid the taste of wood, astringency, and smelly oil in coffee. I'm looking for Luodou that can carry a lot of Krima, but with a soft taste and a neutral flavor. ")

Cipolla sees himself as the guardian of an espresso tradition that he believes is being lost even in Italy. A true espresso, he argues, is a dark roast using "the right type of robusta, roasted at different temperature/time curves than arabicas and blended at proper percentages with proper nonconflicting arabica beans." An all-arabica espresso blend, he observes, may produce crema, but without the density and viscosity that can be achieved with robusta. The experience in the cup, he says, is not only about the amount of crema, but the characteristics associated with it. Robusta, he argues, is much harder to work with than arabica, "but if one knows what to do, robustas can add to arabicas, and vice versa."

Cipolla sees himself as a guardian of the espresso tradition, which he believes is losing even in Italy. He stressed that a real espresso should be "the right variety of roasted beans baked in a different temperature / time curve than those grown in Arabica." deep-roasted coffee beans made from coordinated Arabica beans in an appropriate proportion. He observed that a pure Arabica blend of espresso beans might have a certain amount of Krima, but without Luo beans it would not be as dense and sticky as it should be. He said that a good cup of espresso is not enough with a certain amount of Krima, what is more important is its taste. He insists that Luodou is more difficult to deal with than Arabica beans, but if you know what to do, Luodou can add color to Arabica beans, and vice versa.)

John says that he came to the coffee world with no biases. He was interested in producing an espresso blend in the Italian tradition with the Indian beans he was importing to the United States, and he realized that Indian robustas were remarkable for their softness. Looking at what they could bring to his blend, he saw more pluses than minuses and thought, "Why wouldn't I use it if it has no other liability other than the fact that there is a big campaign against it?"

John says he has no prejudice in the coffee world. He wanted to use the coffee beans he imported from India to the United States to produce an Italian blend. As a result, he realized that Indian Luodou was very helpful in making his coffee softer, and Luodou played a more positive role than negative role in his blending. So he thinks, since there is nothing wrong with it, why not use Luo Dou?

The unique thing about an espresso machine, says John, is that it has the ability to force the water molecules into the interior of the coffee particles and drive out the oils. "And if you don't emulsify the oil," he adds, "you're not producing espresso." Like Cipolla, he argues that most North American espresso is not true espresso. In most cases, he says, only the solubles have been extracted, as with brewed coffee, and there is little or no crema. And without crema, he asks, "What is going to capture the aroma and deliver it to the consumer?"

John said that the most unique thing about the espresso machine is that it can use pressure to force water molecules into the coffee particles and extract oil. He added that if the oil is not extracted, it is not espresso at all. Like Cipolla, he believes that most "espresso" in North America is not really espresso. John says that in most cases, North American espresso, like drip coffee, extracts only soluble matter; there is little or no Krima. He asked, "how can coffee without Krima bring the aroma of coffee to customers?"

With the discrete use of a "mute" robusta that will deliver long-lasting crema without adversely affecting the taste, says John, you can capture the aromatic compounds (along with carbon dioxide) in tiny bubbles of oil film. You want the bubbles to last, he says, and to burst in the back of the mouth so that the aroma is released into the nose, and you want those bubbles to attach themselves to the taste buds and continue to deliver their aroma for a couple of hours. "The persistence of crema is a 
 measurable quality, and that is lacking in North American espresso," argues John. "Even the arabica blends that produce crema, it doesn't last very long."

John said that intermittent use does not affect the taste of coffee and can provide "dumb" beans that can last for a long time. It can capture the aroma of coffee in tiny grease foams. 'you need to keep Krima for a long time so that it breaks at the back of the mouth and releases the fragrance into the nasal cavity,'he says. 'you also want these grease foams to hang on the taste buds and release the aroma of coffee for hours on end. John argues that Krima's sustainability is a sign of the quality of espresso, but North American "espresso" lacks such a mark. "although Arabica blended coffee can also produce Krima, it doesn't last long.)

All Arabica

Pure Arabica matching

One of the most outspoken opponents of robustas over the years has been Don Schoenholt, "founding father" of the SCAA and president of Gillies Coffee in New York. Schoenholt recalls a time many years ago when Pete McLaughlin of Royal Coffee in Emeryville, Calif., asked him to taste an unusual coffee. "The coffee was heavy and smooth, no aroma to speak of and no acidity. It had a neutral aspect on the palate. It was all body-a deep, swirling, dark, heavy, lingering mouth-feel." The mystery coffee was a washed Thai robusta, roasted to second crack, and McLaughlin suggested it might be useful in an espresso. Schoenholt experimented with it but ultimately decided against using it in his espresso blends. As he puts it, he found that "there was an effect on cup quality that is undesirable, and even though I love foam on espresso, ice cream sodas and beer, I choose in my own coffees not to trade taste for the esoteric choice of little bubbles."

Mr. Don Schoenholt, the founder of SCAA and the president of Geely Coffee in New York, has been the staunchest opponent of Luodou for years. Mr. Schoenholt recalls that Peter McLaughlin of Royal Coffee, Royal Coffee in Emeryville, California, invited him to taste a unique coffee many years ago. "this coffee has a strong taste, smooth taste, no aroma and no sour taste. The taste is very neutral, all body,deep, swirling, dark, heavy, lingering mouth-feel. This mysterious coffee is washed Thai Luodou coffee, roasted to the second explosion, Mr. McLaughlin suggested that it be used in the blending of Italian coffee. After experimenting, Mr. Schoenholt finally decided not to use the beans in his espresso. .)

One theory about strong anti-robusta feelings in the American specialty coffee world is that the founders of the SCAA were, by and large, brewed coffee people rather than espresso people. Asked about this, Schoenholt argues that they were not coffee beverage people at all, but "bean people. Starbucks did not sell cups of coffee. Gillies did not sell cups of coffee. M.E. Swing did not sell cups of coffee. Al Peet put an urn in his store later. And even then he was alone." Of course, one might counter that the beans specialty coffee pioneers were selling were intended for brewed coffee, not espresso. Indeed, Peet's did not offer an espresso blend until the introduction of Espresso Forte in 2002.

(translation)

But Schoenholt does seem to leave the door open, even a crack. "It is true that a sword-line in the sand was drawn (on the robusta question)," he remarks. It is also true that things change. With the unmitigated success of specialty coffee in the land, we can afford the luxury of relaxing our grip on the sword hilt-not on standards, but on dogma.

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George Howell, Tim Castle and Mane Alves give little ground to robusta. "tried some of the famous espressos with robusta in them, and I don't care for them," says Castle. "In my opinion, it's a form-over-function approach. I think the goal of the thick, rubbery crema is to seal in the aroma. But once you add the robusta, you've defeated the purpose." Howell remembers being somewhat surprised by an Indian robusta he tasted at the SCAA conference in Boston in 2003, but quicky adds, "The dramatic un-sweetness of robusta precludes me from using it. I find that even the most neutral robusta takes away what Illustrated 39th after, which is sweetness."

(translation)

Coffee Lab International owner Alves' opposition is particularly striking because he once conducted a series of tests for a client who asked him how much robusta could be used in a blend without the taste being detectable. Using a mild Angolan robusta, Alves found that the robusta was not detectable until he went up to 10 percent or 15 percent. Still, he argues that there is no reason to use it in an espresso blend, as the main factor in getting crema is the freshness of the roast, not the type of beans.

(translation)

Alves also argues that a cafe owner who uses a robusta blend is acting against his or her own self-interest. When one drinks an all-arabica espresso, he says, "Your body will ask you for more in a couple of hours," while an espresso containing robusta will satisfy the customer for the rest of the day. "like the customer to come back and get more coffee like the customer to come back and get more coffee," he says.

Neutral Territory

Neutral area

Still, many roasters with a strong interest in espresso continue to buck the anti-robusta trend. A fairly new arrival on the espresso scene is Seattle's Victrola Coffee Roasters, which created quite a stir during April's SCAA conference, even though they did not have a booth and were not included on the official conference tours of Seattle coffeehouses. As word spread, more and more conference attendees and World Barista Championship (WBC) finalists made the trip over to Victrola's comfortable East 15th Avenue headquarters for a taste of Victrola's Streamline Espresso blend, a rich, smooth coffee in which the blueberry notes from the Harrar sang out with the purity of a Roberta Peters aria.

(translation)

When Jen Strogin and Chris Sharp opened Victrola five years ago, they tried different coffees and settled on Schomer's Espresso Vivace blends. But two years ago, with Schomer's support, they began to experiment with roasting their own. Roaster Konecny says that they initially included robusta because Schomer uses it in his blends, and they didn't want to make a major change.

(translation)

Konecny says he doesn't use robusta for crema, but because "a good robusta, roasted well, provides a middle flavor note that glues some top-note flavors to some middle-note flavors. At a small percentage, it has a space to occupy that's unique." He also finds that the robusta brings down the overall acidity of the blend and helps maintain the caramel and chocolate tones while allowing the top notes to come out without being overly bright.

(translation)

At the same time, Konecny isn't joining John, Schomer and Cipolla on the robusta pulpit, and he says that removing the robusta from the blend is always an option. His attitude reflects openness to considering all the options and a willingness to cross the line in the sand over robusta.

(translation)

WBC certified judge Andrew Barnett, owner of Ecco caf é in Santa Rosa, Calif., is another serious espresso roaster who has kept an open mind on the robusta question. He isn't currently using robusta because, as he puts it, "the flavor profile that I am attempting to express is not served by the addition of a premium robusta." Still, he has experimented with robustas, doesn't rule out using it in the future and adds, "There are a plethora of possibilities in creating a stellar espresso blend with robusta."

(translation)

As Barnett mentally surveys the best espressos he has tasted in the last year, he includes Schomer's Dolce blend, caf é Daphne, John's Malabar Gold and Victrola's Streamline, alongside all-arabica blends like Stumptown's Hair Bender, Hines Public Market Coffee's espresso, George Howell's Daterra Farm North Italian Style Espresso and 2004 World Barista Champion Tim Wendelboe's Stockfleth's blend.

(translation)

The debate over the appropriateness of using robusta in espresso blends is not likely to dissipate soon, but as the serious espresso culture that started in the Pacific Northwest continues to expand around the country, with the opening of roastery/ cafe é s run by quality-driven roasters and staffed by passionate and well-trained baristas, it seems likely that more roasters will explore the use of robustas in their drive to create distinctive espressos.

(translation)

About this Article

This article was reprinted with permission from Fresh Cup Magazine. It originally appeared in theJune 2005 Coffee Almanac edition of the magazine.

With regard to this article, this article was republished under the authorization of fresh Cup magazine, Fresh Cup Magazine. The original version of the article was published in the special edition of the magazine, JUne 2005 Coffee Almanac.)

About the Author

Richard Reynolds is communications director of Mother Jones Magazine and has written about coffee for the New York Times, San Francisco Chronicle and other publications. Comments on this article may be sent to mail@freshcup.com.

About the author, Richard Reynolds is the communications director of Mama Jones magazine and has written about coffee for the New York Times, the San Francisco Chronicle and other publications. Comments on this article can be sent to the following email address, mail@freshcup.com).