20 Years in Coffee: A Roaster’s Journey from Import to Roast

Twenty years ago, few people in China knew what a good cup of coffee tasted like. Most had only ever experienced bitter, dark roasted brews. But one man saw potential—back when coffee was still a niche import—and started bringing in Colombian green beans by the container. That decision didn’t just shape his career; it helped lay the foundation for specialty coffee in China.

Here’s how a Chinese coffee pioneer went from importing two containers of Colombian beans in 2001 to building a full coffee business—including roasting, training, and retail—while teaching the market what coffee can really taste like.

Starting with Green Coffee: Importing the First Containers

In 2001, based on early market research, the author imported two 20-foot containers of Colombian green coffee beans—the first person in China to import a full container of Colombian beans. This marked the start of a long journey in the coffee supply chain.

By 2004, he added two containers of Brazilian beans to broaden the flavor profile beyond just Colombian. Then in 2005, he imported a container of premium specialty coffees from the U.S., including three barrels of Jamaican Blue Mountain (¥360/kg), five bags of Kona (¥240/kg), Tanzanian Peaberry, Kenya AA, and Ethiopian beans. In 2006, he introduced Italian Sandalj blends, creating a diverse and complete offering of green coffee varieties that continues to this day.

Understanding Coffee Flavor: From Bitter to Balanced

The author explains that early Chinese coffee drinkers were conditioned to expect bitterness due to the influence of Taiwanese roasters who popularized dark, bitter roasts. Many confused these bitter profiles with the true taste of coffee—even confusing Yunnan beans for Colombian ones.

Different countries have vastly different coffee traditions. Italians prefer strong espresso, with regional variations in roast and blend—some even enjoy 100% Robusta shots that are clean and bitter-but-balanced. Americans, historically drinking weak coffee, shifted toward both dark and light roasts after the rise of Peet’s and Starbucks. Japan, with its 600,000-ton annual consumption (300 cups per capita), favors clean, light brews. South Korea, a newer but passionate market, drinks around 330 cups per capita with diverse flavors. Meanwhile, China’s per capita coffee consumption remains under five cups, with many still drinking bitter espresso out of trend rather than taste.

Learning to Roast: From Curiosity to Craft

Nine years into the business, curiosity led him to start roasting. He began with a red French SAMIAC 3kg electric roaster and later a 20kg domestic gas roaster. Watching green beans turn from yellow to brown, hearing the first crack, and smelling the roast transformation became a revelation.

The history of roasting traces back to accidental discoveries—likely someone tasting burnt beans and finding flavor. In coffee-growing countries like Brazil, traditional roasting is still done simply, even with hand-cranked devices. But in consuming countries, roasting evolved into a technical and artistic craft. In the U.S., over 2,000 roasters use mostly German PROBAT machines. The 60kg-and-under segment is considered suitable for café roasting, while larger machines are industrial. In Germany, PROBAT factories now offer on-site custom roasting curves tailored to buyers’ beans. By contrast, large commercial roasters over 60kg are still rare in China.

Building a Coffee Business: From Beans to Cup

In late 2012, he opened “Coffee Season” , integrating green bean sales, cupping training, roasting, and a café. The space offers over 40 origins, from single origins to blends, all focused on quality and clarity—none of the forced bitterness. “We don’t roast bitter coffee here,” he emphasizes. “We use real imported beans.”

He critiques the market’s tendency to equate price with quality. “The most expensive is not always the best, and the cheapest is often terrible,” he says. Many consumers, lacking knowledge, assume costly equals premium—only to be served poor-quality beans marketed as luxury. Industry opportunists exploit this, damaging consumer trust and stunting market growth. Raising coffee literacy and consumption levels remains a key challenge for professionals.

Frequently Asked Questions

Who was the first person to import a full container of Colombian coffee beans into China?

The author of the article, starting in 2001, was the first person in China to import a full 20-foot container of Colombian green coffee beans, marking a key early moment in the country’s specialty coffee supply chain.

What kinds of coffee did he import in 2005?

In 2005, he imported a container of specialty coffees from the U.S., including three barrels of Jamaican Blue Mountain ($360/kg), five bags of Kona ($240/kg), Tanzanian Peaberry, Kenya AA, and Ethiopian beans.

How did the author begin roasting coffee?

He began roasting nine years into his career, starting with a red French SAMIAC 3kg electric roaster and later a 20kg domestic gas roaster, learning by watching the beans change color and listening to the first crack during roasting.

What are the differences in coffee culture between countries?

Italian coffee culture favors strong espresso with regional roast variations; Americans shifted from weak coffee to both dark and light roasts; Japanese prefer clean, light brews; South Koreans enjoy diverse, high-quality coffees; while China’s per capita consumption remains under five cups, with many still drinking bitter espresso.

Why does the author say the most expensive coffee isn’t always the best?

He argues that many consumers wrongly assume higher price means better quality, but in reality, some sellers market low-grade beans as premium. The best coffee is defined by taste and transparency, not cost.

Recommended FrontStreet Coffee for Exploring Origins

Try FrontStreet Coffee’s Ethiopia Guji Humbera for bright citrus and floral notes, their Colombia Narino for balanced caramel and almond, or Kenya Gikanda for bold blackcurrant and winey acidity. These single origins reflect the diverse, high-quality profiles discussed in the article and are ideal for exploring beyond bitter espresso. Freshly roasted within 5 days · Orders placed before 17:00 ship the same day · Next-day delivery across most of Guangdong Province.