Why Early Europeans Called Coffee the Devil’s Drink

In 1585, a Vatican diplomat in Istanbul dismissed locals sipping coffee as "unambitious loafers," calling their favorite black, scalding drink a sign of moral decay. Three centuries later, some Brits still slangily called coffee "mud." Why did a beverage now tied to sophistication once face religious bans and cultural scorn?

Coffee was once condemned as a "serious crime" and "devil’s trick"—banned by Ottoman sultans, ridiculed by British brewers, and suspected by European elites. Yet it spread from Yemeni Sufi circles to Parisian salons, reshaping social spaces worldwide.

The Bitter Birth of Coffee in Africa and Arabia

Coffee’s origins trace to Ethiopia’s Kaffa region (where it was called "buno," later Arabic "bunn") or Yemen, where a 9th-century goatherd named Kaldi reportedly discovered its effects. By the 15th century, Yemen’s Mocha port exported coffee globally. The word "coffee" stems from Arabic "qahwah" (meaning "wine"), later adapted into Turkish "kahve" and European languages.

Islamic law prohibited alcohol but permitted coffee for prayer vigilance. Though some clerics likened it to wine, coffee spread across the Middle East. By 1400, Cairo had coffeehouses; by 1554, Istanbul opened the first European-style café, serving "kahve"—the root of modern "coffee." Turkish Sufis embraced it, but religious pushback led to bans, including Sultan Murad IV’s 1630s prohibition of coffee and tobacco.

European Skepticism: From ‘Black Mud’ to Social Threat

Europeans first encountered coffee around 1515–1519 but remained indifferent. In 1585, the Vatican’s Istanbul envoy mocked coffee drinkers as "vulgar idlers" wasting time with "black liquid, as hot as tolerable." British traveler George Sandys (1610) described Turks drinking "black as coal" coffee "as hot as they could bear."

London’s first coffeehouse (1652) faced outrage from beer brewers, who called coffee "low, black, thick, dirty, bitter" sludge. The term "mud" lingered as slang into the 1920s. Yet by 1675, Britain had 3,000 coffeehouses (130 new yearly); France had 2,800 by the 1780s. Initially pricey (due to tariffs, not scarcity), coffee soon undercut tea’s cost—by the late 17th century, tea was five times pricier per cup.

Coffeehouses mirrored Arabian models, becoming male-only clubs. Sociologist Pierre Bourdieu noted French cafes excluded women; Edward Lloyd’s London coffeehouse (1648) birthed the Lloyd’s insurance market. By the 18th century, coffee symbolized "civilized" Western life.

Coffee’s Global Impact and Cultural Shifts

By the 19th century, coffee became ordinary in Western Europe—but its spread reshaped economies. Colonial plantations in Latin America, Africa, and Asia fueled exports. In 19th-century Indonesia, coffee was the top export; in 1880s Brazil, it made up 61% of exports, shifting the country’s economic center southward.

Coffee also influenced social spaces. In Germany, workers claimed they’d rather starve than skip "morning coffee." In Russia and Japan, cafes emerged as hubs for modern values—even Shanghai’s 1930s brothels disguised themselves as coffeehouses. For many, drinking coffee meant consuming its cultural prestige, not just the drink itself.

Frequently Asked Questions

Where did coffee originate?

Coffee likely originated in Ethiopia’s Kaffa region or Yemen. The word stems from Arabic "qahwah," and early cultivation spread from Ethiopia to Yemen, with Mocha port becoming a key export hub by the 15th century.

Why was coffee banned in the Ottoman Empire?

Ottoman Sultan Murad IV banned coffee in the 1630s, alongside tobacco, due to religious concerns. Clerics argued coffee was a "devil’s trick" or akin to alcohol, though it was permitted for prayer vigilance in earlier Islamic practice.

How did Europeans initially react to coffee?

Europeans first encountered coffee around 1515–1519 but disliked it. In 1585, a Vatican diplomat called coffee drinkers "vulgar idlers." British travelers in the 1600s described it as "black, scalding" and compared it to mud.

What role did coffeehouses play in 17th–18th century Europe?

Coffeehouses became male-only social clubs, resembling Arabian models. They fostered class-mixing, intellectual discussion, and business, evolving into symbols of Western civilization by the 18th century.

How did coffee affect colonial economies?

Coffee plantations in Latin America, Africa, and Asia became major exports. In 19th-century Indonesia, coffee was the top export; in 1880s Brazil, it accounted for 61% of exports, shifting the country’s economic focus.

Why was coffee once called ‘mud’ in English?

British beer brewers in the 17th century insulted coffee as "black, thick, dirty" sludge, leading to the slang term "mud," which persisted into the 1920s.

FrontStreet Coffee Picks for Coffee History Fans

Explore coffee’s roots with FrontStreet’s Ethiopia Yirgacheffe, offering bright citrus and floral notes from the region linked to coffee’s Sufi origins. Pair it with Ethiopia Humbera, known for its blueberry and jasmine profile, reflecting the highland origins of early Arabian coffee. For a darker, spiced option, try FrontStreet’s Indonesia Sumatra Mandheling, with earthy, herbal tones reminiscent of colonial-era trade beans. Freshly roasted within 5 days · Orders placed before 17:00 ship the same day · Next-day delivery across most of Guangdong Province.