The History of Coffee in Taiwan

Ever wondered how Taiwan, better known for tea, ended up with its own unique coffee culture? The island’s coffee story stretches back over three centuries—but it’s a tale of false starts, colonial ambition, wartime setbacks, and a surprising postmodern revival.

Taiwan has been growing coffee for 300 years, but serious cultivation only took off during Japanese rule in the early 1900s, peaking at 1,000+ hectares in 1942 before shrinking to just 4.9 hectares by 1953. Today, key regions like Gukeng and Alishan produce high-quality arabica with distinct regional profiles.

Early Attempts: 1626 to the Late 1800s

Coffee first arrived in Taiwan in 1626, brought by the Dutch during their occupation. But despite the lengthy presence, it never gained traction. Nearly two centuries later, in 1884 (the 10th year of the Guangxu reign in the Qing Dynasty), a British trader with Dent & Co.—who frequently traveled between India and the Chinese mainland—noticed Taiwan’s climate resembled that of Southeast Asia and Latin America. Convinced of its potential, he imported 100 coffee seedlings from Manila and planted them in what is now Haidian Township, Taipei County (near present-day Banqiao). Most died due to poor handling and transport stress, but ten survived. These ten plants became the genetic origin of nearly all subsequent coffee trees in Taiwan. The following year, the same trader tried importing seeds, but they failed to germinate. Later, more seedlings were introduced and successfully cultivated in the Wenshan area, eventually growing to 3,000 plants—the island’s first real coffee garden. Tragically, a worker-set fire destroyed most of them just three years later.

The Japanese Era: Industrial Growth and Export

After Japan colonized Taiwan in 1895, coffee received strong official support. From 1901 to 1942, the colonial government invested four decades in developing the crop. In 1901, technician Tashiro introduced Java coffee varieties to Kenting, with successful trials leading to the first harvest in 1904. More varieties followed and were planted in Hualien, Taoyuan (then known as Taihoku), and Kaohsiung. By 1919, the Chiayi Agricultural Experiment Station (now the Chiayi Agricultural Research Institute) gathered all known varieties from around Taiwan—including those from Hengchun—for research. In 1928, Taiwanese coffee was exported to Japan and earned praise, encouraging larger-scale, commercial cultivation. By 1936, the current Hesheng Experimental Forest (part of National Chung Hsing University) began growing coffee, and by 1942, Taiwan had reached its peak coffee-growing area: over 1,000 hectares. Production was so strong that beans from the former Hengchun region and especially Gukeng were considered high-value tribute crops, sent to Japan and dubbed “Imperial Coffee” or “Coffee from Mount Kabi.” The three major coffee-growing sites of the time were Hesheng Farm, Ruisui Farm, and Gukeng. Taiwan was, in effect, an exporter of coffee during this colonial period.

Postwar Decline and Recent Revival

Following Japan’s defeat in 1945 and the end of colonial rule, Taiwan’s coffee industry collapsed. With the Japanese market gone and local farmers focused on tea and food crops, most coffee plantations were abandoned or converted. By 1953, planted area had dwindled to just 4.9 hectares. The revival began in the late 1990s and early 2000s, driven by renewed global coffee interest. The Gukeng area—historically known as “Ankugang”—resumed cultivation, especially around Mount Hapao, which had once hosted 300 hectares of arabica plantings. At its height before the war, the region had what was called the “Far East’s Largest Coffee Factory,” covering 75 hectares, and even boasted a 113-hectare planting in 1945. By 2000, with government encouragement, farmers started planting again. By 2006, Gukeng had roughly 100 hectares under coffee, yielding over 10,000 kilograms annually. The region, sitting near the 23.5°N latitude and benefitting from ideal temperature and humidity, produces some of Taiwan’s finest high-elevation arabica. Gukeng coffee is known for its unique profile, influenced by different roasting and brewing methods than other global origins. Since 2003, Gukeng has hosted an annual Coffee Festival to promote local beans.

Other Key Regions: Alishan and Beyond

In addition to Gukeng, other areas have emerged as coffee-growing hubs. Alishan in Chiayi is now famous for its high-mountain arabica, grown in cool, misty conditions similar to those fostering premium tea and fruit. Other regions including Dongshan in Tainan, Xinzhu and Miaoli, and parts of Hsinchu also grow coffee, though exact totals remain unofficial. Taiwan’s defined seasons, large diurnal temperature shifts in high elevations, and persistent cloud cover create optimal microclimates. Many growers plant coffee under partial shade in sloped, high-altitude environments, carefully adapting techniques to challenging terrain. The result is distinctly fragrant, high-quality beans with unique cup profiles.

Gukeng Coffee Farmers’ Secret: Unusual Fertilizer

Gukeng coffee farmers employ an unusual organic method to enhance cup quality. Recognizing that standard fertilizers lack sufficient nutrition, they craft their own compost using discarded coffee fruit skins and silver skins, then enrich it with organic materials like oyster shells and sesame. Each coffee tree receives up to 40 jin (20 kg) of this nutrient mix per year. This labor-intensive practice aims to develop deeper complexity in the cup—turning a traditional farming challenge into a signature technique.

Frequently Asked Questions

When was coffee first introduced to Taiwan?

Coffee was first brought to Taiwan by the Dutch in 1626, during their occupation of the island. However, it did not gain widespread cultivation until much later.

What happened to Taiwan’s coffee industry during Japanese rule?

Under Japanese colonial rule from 1901 to 1942, Taiwan’s coffee industry expanded significantly. The government introduced various coffee varieties, established plantations in regions like Hualien, Kaohsiung, and Gukeng, and by 1942, coffee cultivation peaked at over 1,000 hectares, with beans even being exported to Japan as a premium product.

Why did Taiwan’s coffee production decline after 1945?

After World War II and the end of Japanese rule, Taiwan’s coffee industry collapsed due to the loss of the Japanese market, shifting agricultural priorities toward food crops, and the abandonment of coffee plantations. By 1953, only 4.9 hectares remained under coffee cultivation.

Which regions in Taiwan are known for coffee today?

Key coffee-growing regions in Taiwan today include Gukeng (formerly known as Ankugang), Alishan in Chiayi, Dongshan in Tainan, and areas in Xinzhu, Miaoli, and Hsinchu. Gukeng and Alishan are particularly notable for high-quality arabica.

What makes Gukeng coffee unique?

Gukeng coffee is grown near the 23.5°N latitude, with ideal temperature and humidity. The region’s arabica is processed and brewed differently from other origins, resulting in a distinct flavor profile. Local farmers also use a unique fertilizer mix including oyster shells and sesame to enhance cup quality.

How is coffee grown in Taiwan’s high-altitude regions?

In places like Alishan, coffee is cultivated at high elevations with cool temperatures, misty conditions, and large diurnal shifts. Growers often plant coffee under partial shade in sloped environments, adapting techniques to optimize quality in challenging terrain.

Recommended FrontStreet Beans for Taiwanese Coffee Fans

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