Does Yunnan coffee taste good? Taste, flavor and cooking method of Katim in Yunnan

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Katim, Yunnan

Treatment: red cherry sun treatment

Variety: Katim

Altitude: 1450-1550 m

Yunnan is located between 15 °N and the Tropic of Cancer, and most areas are 1000-2000 meters above sea level. The topography is mainly mountainous and sloping, with large ups and downs, fertile soil, sufficient sunshine, rich rainfall and large temperature difference between day and night. These unique natural conditions form the particularity of Yunnan small-grain coffee taste-strong but not bitter, fragrant but not strong, slightly fruity.

Baoshan Lujiangba began to grow coffee industry on a large scale since the 1950s. The red volcanic ash soil with perennial high temperature, suitable rainfall, sufficient light and rich minerals makes the natural conditions of growing coffee particularly advantageous. The coffee produced is of good quality and mellow flavor. Now Lujiangba has become the largest coffee variety base and one of the important producing areas in China.

[historical story]

Yunnan has the earliest history of growing coffee in China. In 1892 (18th year of Guang Xu of the Qing Dynasty), French missionary Tian Deneng planted the first coffee tree in Zhugula Village, Binchuan, Dali, which opened the prelude to the cultivation of coffee by Chinese mainland. Lujiangba in Baoshan, dry and hot valley climate is very suitable for the cultivation of coffee, because the back of Gaoligong Mountain coffee garden can reach 1500 meters above sea level. In 1952, the first trial in Baoshan area was just half of China's 100-year history of coffee. In the early days, Arabica varieties were introduced in the village, mainly iron pickup and bourbon.

In order to simply increase the yield, coffee farmers began to cut down the improved varieties of coffee with good flavor and planted varieties with poor flavor, but the varieties with very high yield were introduced at the initial stage of the introduction of s288 with resistance to leaf rust, and later introduced a more high-yielding Katim variety. the older generation of coffee people basically do not drink coffee, they just regard coffee as an economic crop, hoping to increase their income, so a large number of improved varieties of coffee are cut down. A high-yielding variety [Katim] was planted.

[producing area]

Coffee cultivation in Yunnan is mainly distributed in Lincang, Baoshan, Pu'er and Dehong, where there are natural resources of low latitude, high altitude and large temperature difference between day and night, which makes Yunnan a golden growing area for producing Arabica coffee with high quality. The average temperature of Baoshan is 21.5℃, and the highest is 40.4℃, which is basically frost-free all the year round. It is recognized as the best producing area of small-grain coffee. The small-grain coffee cultivated here is famous at home and abroad for its strong but not bitter, fragrant but not strong, well-proportioned small noodles, mellow and fruity.

[variety]

Katim: in 1959, the Portuguese mixed Brazilian Kaddura with Timo and bred the second generation of Cartimo, which has super disease resistance and yield capacity. But the flavor is also poor, and it is an important variety of commercial beans at present. In recent years, botanists from all over the world have turned to the interaction between Arabica and Katimodo in an attempt to reduce the pedigree of Luodou in order to improve the bad reviews of the Katimo Cup.

[red cherry tanning]

1. Harvest ripe coffee fruit

two。 Preliminary selection of impurities and inferior beans

3. Select floating beans: pour the coffee fruit into the sink, the ripe and full fruit will sink to the bottom of the sink, and the immature or incomplete fruit will surface.

4. Sun-drying: remove the ripe coffee fruit that sank at the bottom of the sink and spread it in the sun-drying field to reduce the moisture content from 70% to about 10-12%. Turn the fruit several times a day to dry evenly, and cover it at night to avoid moisture.

5. Remove the shell: after about two to four weeks of exposure, the outer layer of the coffee seed has been dry and hard, and then use a sheller to remove the shell.

Advantages: the treatment process is very simple, does not need to invest too many tools and equipment, and except for the steps of removing floating beans, it does not need to use water, the cost is low, and it is widely used in areas where water resources are not abundant and less affluent.

[raw beans and baking]

Katim raw beans look yellowish green with silver skin, which is flatter and has lower water content than Huaguoshan. And Huaguoshan silver skin is more, showing treasure green.

The furnace temperature is 200 degrees Celsius, the throttle is opened for 1 minute, the firepower is adjusted to 160C, the return temperature is 1:36 seconds, the temperature is 150.7 degrees Celsius, the smell of grass disappears completely, the dehydration is completed, the firepower remains unchanged, and the throttle changes 4.

In the 6th minute, the firepower was adjusted to 140, in the 7th minute, the firepower was adjusted to 120, and in the 8th minute, ugly wrinkles and black markings appeared on the bean table, and the smell of toast obviously changed to coffee, which could be defined as a prelude to an explosion. At this time, listen clearly to the sound of the explosion point. Start to explode at 8: 33 ", fire power is 90, the throttle is fully open, the firepower is adjusted to 20 degrees in the 9th minute, and the development of an explosion is 239 degrees. 05 ", put into the pot at 198.5 degrees, belongs to moderate baking.

[cup test and flavor]

Cup measuring apparatus: cup measuring cup, cup measuring spoon, 94 degrees hot water, COE recording meter, coffee beans, thermometer, timer, grinding degree BG 4m (China 20 screen pass rate 75%)

Process: break the slag 4 minutes after water injection, and score the cup according to the COE test table within 30 minutes.

Curve 1: the taste of cereals is obvious, the sour taste is bright, but the aftertaste is not enough, and the cleanliness is slightly worse.

Curve 2: soft citrus, fruit fermentation, cocoa, nuts, dark chocolate, herbs, wood

Line 3: also has caramel, cocoa, almonds, dried fruit, grapefruit peel flavor, rich caramel flavor

Line 4: bitter entrance, cut tobacco, spicy aftertaste, Chinese fir flavor, poor taste

After the cup test, it is discussed that the flavor of Line 2 is relatively high, and the flavor and taste are balanced. At the same time, the flavor of caramel on Line 3 is rich, the sour taste is calm, and the characteristics of Katim are retained, so the two curves are compared by hand.

[hand impact test]

The first time to cook:

V60 filter cup, water temperature 90 degrees, ratio of powder to water 1:15, grinding degree BG 5R (64% of China standard No. 20 sieve pass rate 64%), extraction time 2 00s

Manipulation: 30-125-227g, the first small water injection to 125g, the second slightly larger water flow to 227g

Line 1 flavor: the entrance is more obvious herbaceous flavor, citrus sour taste is obvious, accompanied by caramel, cocoa, but overall has a strong sense of astringency and miscellaneous flavor

Line 2 flavor: the entrance is bitter, although it has the flavor of caramel and dark chocolate, but it tastes unpleasant and tastes like bitter tea.

Judgment: miscellaneous taste and astringent taste are obvious, because the baking degree is shallow, the caramelization reaction is insufficient, and the decomposition of chlorogenic acid is incomplete, so line 1 is removed; the water temperature is high during cooking, and the powder-water ratio is fully extracted at 1:15, which brings out the bitterness of the latter stage, so in order to reduce the bitterness release, the powder-water ratio test at 1:14 was adopted.

Second adjustment:

V60 filter cup, water temperature 86 degrees, ratio of powder to water 1:14, grinding degree BG 5R (64% of China standard No. 20 sieve pass rate 64%), extraction time 1chrome 59s

Manipulation: 30-125-227g, the first small water injection to 125g, the second slightly larger water flow to 234g

No. 2 curve flavor: like a fortified version of balsam pear water, herbal tea, taste bad.

Judgment: reducing the ratio of water to powder and lowering the water temperature brings a concentrated version of bitterness, proving that the source of bitterness is due to manipulation, small flow water injection makes the taste fully released, the water temperature is still not low enough, the bitterness extraction speed is accelerated, and the concentration is too high, so it becomes concentrated balsam pear soup, need to use a lower water temperature, 1:15 powder-to-water ratio

The third adjustment:

V60 filter cup, water temperature 82-83 degrees, ratio of powder to water 1:15, grindness BG 5R (64% of China standard 20 sieve pass rate 64%), extraction time 1VR 58s

Manipulation: 30-125-227g, slightly faster circle speed, the first section of large water injection to 125g, the second section of larger water flow to 227g, the water column is higher

Curve 2 flavor: herbaceous flavor is not as heavy as before, there is a clear steady fruit acid, after cooling, there are caramel, dried fruit, cocoa, dark chocolate, herb, woody flavor, such a fast flush, can reduce the bitterness release in the middle and back.

Conclusion: Katim also has its own flavor characteristics, but in essence, the variety determines the general trend of the taste. Katim retains the Robusta gene of 1 big 4 and retains the herbs, wood and bitterness. but it can be adjusted by baking and hand flushing to weaken the bad flavor, while Huaguoshan prefers soft caramel, cream chocolate, honeydew flavor and brown sugar finish. Is it Katim or tin pickup that represents the regional flavor of Yunnan, or is it different varieties with different treatments? We're still exploring...

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