Early Coffee Planting in China: Taiwan’s 1884 Introduction

In 1884, amid naval battles between China and France, a British tea trader landed in Taiwan with an unexpected cargo: coffee seedlings. Who was he, why did he choose Taiwan, and what happened next? This is the verified account of how coffee first took root in Taiwan—and later spread across parts of China.

In 1884, British tea merchant Lawrence introduced over 100 coffee seedlings from Manila to Taiwan. The following year, he planted seeds in Taipei’s Sanxia area. Though most failed, ten survived—marking coffee’s first introduction to Taiwan.

The First Coffee Trials in Taiwan (1884–1901)

Coffee arrived in Taiwan in 1884, during the 10th year of the Guangxu Emperor’s reign. British trader Lawrence, who had previously traded in Africa and South America, noticed Taiwan’s warm, humid climate resembled coffee-growing regions of the Caribbean. That year, he began trial plantings. Historical research confirms the following sequence:

• In 1884, Lawrence imported over 100 coffee seedlings from Manila, Philippines, and the next year brought seeds to Taipei’s Sanxia region. Most plants died due to transport and poor care; only around ten survived.
• In 1901, during Japanese rule, technician Tashiro introduced coffee varieties from Java (Indonesia) to Kenting National Park. These trials succeeded under Taiwanese conditions.

Expansion and Early Harvests (1904–1942)

By 1904, Taiwan saw its first meaningful coffee harvests, sparking interest in further variety trials. The crop was soon planted across more regions.

• 1904: First substantial yields encouraged the import of additional varieties, expanding cultivation to areas including Taitung, Hualien, and Kaohsiung.
• 1919: The Chiayi Agricultural Experiment Branch (now Chiayi Agricultural Experiment Station) gathered all known varieties from Hengchun and other regions for formal study.
• 1928: Taiwan coffee was first exported to Japan, where it earned praise and spurred larger-scale, industrialized planting.
• 1936: Coffee planting began at today’s Huhsun Forest Farm (affiliated with National Chung Hsing University).
• 1942: Taiwan’s coffee cultivation peaked at over 1,000 hectares.

The Historical Record and Cultural Context

The 1884 introduction is documented in multiple sources, including Taiwan’s National History Museum and the 2007 Council of Agriculture report. Coffee culture also grew alongside early cafés.

• The National History Museum’s book Taiwan Early Coffee Culture (p.10) confirms the 1884 Manila seedling import and notes trials in Wenshan and Xizhi. The 1901 Java variety trials in Kenting were also successful.
• By 1928, Taipei had 22 cafés, including notable ones in Dadaocheng and Wanhua. The 1935 Taiwan Coffee Expo featured the Morinaga Café as an exhibition space.
• Café furniture in Taiwan, such as Thonet No.14 chairs, mirrored European styles, indicating early global coffee culture ties.

Coffee Varieties and Regional Development

Early plantings were mostly Arabica, though some Robusta from Uganda and Indonesia were later introduced. Key regions included:

• GuKeng Coffee: Located at 23.7°N, 600–1,500m elevation, with 1,500–2,000mm rainfall. The Japanese developed 300 hectares here, focusing on Arabica. Grown in Huabao, Huanan, Guilin, and Hepao, it was once considered “imperial tribute” coffee. Post-war decline led to recent revitalization efforts.
• Dongshan Coffee: Planted by locals who worked at a Japanese trial farm in Nanshi. At 500–800m elevation near the Tropic of Cancer, the area benefits from volcanic soils, organic management, and large diurnal temperature variation. Many trees are now semi-wild and distinct from typical Arabica or Robusta types.

The State of Taiwan Coffee Today

Modern Taiwan consumes and produces coffee at significant levels, with growing interest in local beans.

• Annual consumption: About 3 billion cups, equating to 130 cups per person. Over half the imported coffee is green bean.
• Export: In 2007, 183.8 tons were exported, mainly to Hong Kong (66.5%) and mainland China (21.0%).
• Production: Taiwan produced 452.7 tons in 2007, but consumed 14,140 tons. Only 16% of processed coffee uses local beans. There is increasing interest in developing a domestic grading system.
• Regional plantings: 16 counties grow coffee on 561 hectares. Chiayi and Nantou lead with 180.5 and 101.6 hectares respectively.

Frequently Asked Questions

When was coffee first introduced to Taiwan?

Coffee was first introduced to Taiwan in 1884, when British tea merchant Lawrence brought over 100 seedlings from Manila, Philippines. These were planted in Sanxia, Taipei the following year.

What coffee varieties were initially planted in Taiwan?

The earliest plantings were primarily Arabica, brought from Manila and later Java. Later, Robusta varieties from Uganda and Indonesia were also introduced, especially for lower-altitude areas.

Where were the main early coffee-growing regions in Taiwan?

Key early regions included Taipei’s Sanxia, Kenting, Hengchun, and later Taitung, Hualien, Kaohsiung, and Chiayi. GuKeng and Dongshan became notable for high-quality Arabica and unique local cultivars.

Did Taiwan export coffee in the early 20th century?

Yes, Taiwan exported coffee starting in 1928, with Japan as the primary market. The exports gained recognition for quality, leading to expanded plantation efforts.

What happened to Taiwan’s coffee industry after its peak in 1942?

After peaking at over 1,000 hectares in 1942, Taiwan’s coffee industry declined post-war due to shifting agriculture, lack of market demand, and high labor costs. Revival efforts have occurred in recent decades, especially in GuKeng.

How much coffee is consumed and produced in Taiwan today?

Taiwan consumes around 3 billion cups annually (about 130 per person), importing most of its green beans. In 2007, it produced 452.7 tons but imported 13,871 tons, mainly from Indonesia, Brazil, and Vietnam.

Recommended FrontStreet Beans for Taiwan Coffee History

Explore Taiwan’s coffee roots with FrontStreet Coffee’s Yirgacheffe, known for its bright citrus and floral notes, and Ethiopia Humbera, offering delicate berry and jasmine tones—both echoing the delicate profiles of early Arabica trials. For a deeper cup, try PWN Golden Mandheling, a classic Indonesian-origin bean with earthy sweetness, reflecting Robusta’s later influence. Freshly roasted within 5 days · Orders placed before 17:00 ship the same day · Next-day delivery across most of Guangdong Province.