How a Designer Turned a Fuzhou Hutong into a Wild Coffee Spot

In the heart of Fuzhou’s historic Three Lanes and Seven Alleys, a derelict building once slated for resettlement has been transformed into one of the city’s most talked-about cafés. But this isn’t just another coffee shop—it’s a design-forward space where architecture, hospitality, and culinary experimentation collide. The question isn’t just what’s inside the cup, but how the entire experience has been reimagined from the ground up.

The answer lies in JOKER&SPADES, a café that opened just two months ago but has already hosted weddings, live music, and photography salons. Behind it: a Fuzhou-born designer with companies in both China and Australia, who decided to trade office space for a coffeehouse that challenges every convention.

A Card-Shaped Name and a Blank Canvas

JOKER&SPADES— in Chinese—gets its name from the owner’s love of poker. “” refers to the club suit, while “” nods to the grinning Joker cards. The café’s English name reflects that same playful aesthetic. The space itself, a former bare-shell unit, was initially meant for residential returnees. But when owner Xie spotted it, he saw potential beyond his design firm’s relocation. “I thought about moving my studio here,” he says. “Then I thought: why not a coffee shop instead?”

Xie, who splits his time between Fuzhou and Australia, where he runs his own design firms, took on every aspect of the café’s interior himself. His approach? Radical subtraction. “I prefer taking things apart,” he explains. “Instead of layering elements, I break them down to their basic units.” That philosophy led to bold moves: tearing out original walls and windows to install floor-to-ceiling glass, or repurposing materials in unexpected ways.

Design as Deconstruction

Walk into JOKER&SPADES and you might mistake it for a spread from a high-end design magazine. Every piece of furniture is custom-made, often from salvaged or unconventional materials. A discarded scaffold becomes a bench. Wine jars are transformed into pathway lights. Even the ubiquitous potted succulents are integrated into the seating. “We want people to rethink what a table is,” Xie says. “If it’s raised off the ground and you can put something on it, it’s a table. A bathtub can be a sink—if it holds water and drains, that’s all you need.”

The design extends to the café’s two courtyards, each featuring a water feature. These aren’t just decorative; they’re a nod to traditional Chinese principles like “” (water returning to the hall) and the idea of living “” (by the water). The result is a space that feels both modern and deeply rooted in cultural context.

Coffee, Cuisine, and Community

The café’s coffee program is led by three skilled baristas, including Binbin, the first female champion of the Fuzhou leg of the World Barista Championship (WBC). Her brother also won the WBC this year. The team serves expertly brewed coffee, though the menu goes beyond drinks. “Since coffee is a Western thing, we wanted the food to feel authentic too,” Xie says. That’s where the American chef comes in, training the kitchen staff and developing a menu with global flair.

The standout dish? American oysters, served fresh and paired with Médoc red wine. “Oysters are sexy,” Xie says. “The briny flavor bursts in your mouth, especially in peak season from October to February.” The café sources its oysters daily to ensure freshness, making it a destination for seafood lovers.

In just two months, JOKER&SPADES has become a hub for events—live music, impromptu weddings, and photography meetups. “We want all kinds of fun things to happen here,” Xie says. It’s a sentiment that reflects the café’s ethos: a space where design, coffee, and community intersect without boundaries.

Frequently Asked Questions

Who is the owner of JOKER&SPADES?

The owner is Xie, a Fuzhou native who runs design companies in both Fuzhou and Australia. He splits his time between the two countries and previously considered using the space for his studio before deciding to open a café.

What does the name JOKER&SPADES mean?

The name references poker: “” (clubs) and “” (the grinning Joker). The English name, JOKER&SPADES, reflects the owner’s love for card motifs and playful design.

Who are the baristas at JOKER&SPADES?

The café employs three baristas, including Binbin, the first female WBC champion from the Fuzhou competition. Her brother also won the WBC this year, and the team is known for skilled coffee preparation.

What is the most popular food item at the café?

The American oysters are the standout dish, served fresh and often paired with Médoc red wine. They’re available seasonally, with peak quality from October to February.

What design philosophy guides the café?

Owner Xie uses a “subtraction and deconstruction” approach, stripping spaces to their essentials. This led to features like floor-to-ceiling windows and furniture made from scaffolding, wine jars, and other repurposed materials.

Where is JOKER&SPADES located?

The café is at T1, Taxiang, Sanfang Qixiang, Gulou District, Fuzhou. Look for its striking interior and courtyard water features.

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