Why Traditional Tunisian Bathhouses Are Dying Out

In the heart of Tunisia’s capital, a centuries-old tradition is quietly fading. Public bathhouses, once a cornerstone of community life, now face dwindling visitors and financial strain. For owners like Abdelaziz Mlika, who’s worked as a masseur in the all-male El-Kachachine hammam for 55 years, business isn’t what it used to be. "People used to come from all over the city," he recalls, but today, fewer are willing—or able—to pay for the experience.

At least 25 of Tunis’s historic bathhouses have closed in recent decades, with only half of the 50 operating in 1843 still functioning. Rising utility costs since 2011 and the spread of home showers have drastically reduced foot traffic.

The Role of Hammams in Tunisian Life

Hammams, or traditional bathhouses, were once as essential as mosques and schools in every Arab neighborhood. Historians note that the more hammams a city had, the more prestigious it was considered. Tunisia’s oldest surviving hammam dates back to the 11th century, but Roman-era public baths, like the Antonine Baths in Carthage (built in 165 AD), predate even those. For locals, these spaces were more than just for cleaning—they were where weekly stress melted away, families gathered, and, in more conservative circles, young women were even sought as brides.

Rawa Guenichi, 25, relies on the all-female Zitouni hammam near her home, which lacks a shower or hot water. "Here, I wash away the week’s pressure," she says. Her family’s old house has no modern plumbing, making the hammam a necessity. Even in wealthier households, hammams remain a weekend ritual, especially during winter or special occasions like Eid al-Fitr and weddings.

How Hammams Operate Today

Most hammams charge around 2.5 Tunisian dinars (US$1.20) for entry, with an additional 2.5 dinars for massage and scrub services. This pricing reflects the decline in clientele—higher fees mean fewer visitors. Some hammams, like Saheb Ettabaa, operate on a split schedule: men in the morning, women in the afternoon, while others, like Zitouni, are exclusively for one gender. The architecture remains striking—white-plastered walls, arched ceilings, and wooden sandals on colorful racks—but the bustle of the past has quieted.

Amina Khmiri, 70, visits Saheb Ettabaa not just to bathe but to chat with neighbors. "Women my age don’t go to cafes or restaurants," she explains. "The hammam was where we socialized." It was also a traditional spot for arranging marriages, though Facebook has largely replaced that role.

Why Hammams Are Disappearing

The decline of Tunisian hammams mirrors broader societal shifts. Since 2011, water, gas, and electricity prices have surged, squeezing profit margins for hammam owners. Architect Ahmed Zaouche of the Association Actions Citoyennes en Médina reports that Tunis’s medina (old city) had 50 hammams in 1843, but only 25 remain. Many have been abandoned or demolished to make way for new developments. "The medina became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1979, but the government hasn’t protected these historic sites," he says.

Tourism, once a potential lifeline, has also suffered. The 2015 terrorist attack in Sousse deterred many visitors, and the wealthy elite prefer luxury hotel spas over traditional baths. "Only the poor and middle class come now," Zaouche laments. "We need to improve the image of hammams to attract more people."

Efforts to Preserve Hammams

To combat the decline, activists like Zaouche organize events to boost hammam revenue. Recent initiatives include concerts, luncheons, and guided tours. Last year, 19 photographers from Tunisia and Europe captured images of the baths for an exhibition. "We want to show people that hammams are more than just old buildings—they’re living cultural spaces," Zaouche explains. Despite these efforts, major renovations are needed to attract tourists and restore the baths’ former glory.

For now, regulars like Guenichi remain loyal. She plans to spend her last pre-wedding day at Zitouni with family, singing, eating, and performing traditional cleansing rituals. "I’ll still come even after I move into a place with a shower," she vows. "At least here, I can get clean and see my friends."

Frequently Asked Questions

How many traditional hammams were there in Tunis in 1843?

In 1843, Tunis had 50 traditional hammams. Today, only about half of those remain operational, with the rest either abandoned or demolished.

What caused the decline of hammams in Tunisia?

The decline is due to a combination of factors: the widespread adoption of home showers, rising utility costs (especially water, gas, and electricity since 2011), fewer visitors, and competition from modern spas and hotels. Tourism drops after events like the 2015 Sousse attack also hurt business.

Do hammams in Tunis still serve a social purpose?

Yes, especially for women and older generations. Hammams like Zitouni (women-only) and Saheb Ettabaa (split gender hours) serve as places for socializing, chatting with neighbors, and even traditional matchmaking—though online platforms have replaced some of that role.

How much does it cost to visit a hammam in Tunis?

Most hammams charge around 2.5 Tunisian dinars (US$1.20) for entry. Additional services like massage and scrubbing cost another 2.5 dinars, reflecting the reduced number of visitors.

Are there any efforts to save Tunis’s historic hammams?

Yes, organizations like the Association Actions Citoyennes en Médina host events such as concerts, luncheons, and photography exhibitions to raise funds and awareness. They’ve also invited photographers to document the baths, but major structural repairs and modernization are still needed.

Why are some hammams gender-specific or have split hours?

Some hammams, like Zitouni, are exclusively for women, while others, like Saheb Ettabaa, operate with men in the morning and women in the afternoon. This setup accommodates cultural norms and provides safe, comfortable spaces for all genders.