Tokui-san’s Beijing Specialty Coffee Shop Tour

In 202X, Japanese coffee authority Tokui Mamoru—author of multiple seminal works on roasting and cupping—toured several Beijing specialty coffee shops alongside local roaster Kino. The 80+ year-old pioneer, who began roasting in 1972 and has visited over 60 coffee-producing nations, offered firsthand observations on everything from bean origin to roast degree. Here’s what he found during his Beijing stops.

Tokui visited five Beijing cafes: BARISTA COFFEE ROASTERS (NetQin location), Real Coffee in the Drum Tower area, Cafe Salon at Yan Dai Xie Jie, Analog in Nanluoguxiang, and a handful of other notable spots. Each visit included detailed discussions on roast profiles, brewing techniques, and the role of the barista in highlighting origin character.

Who Is Tokui Mamoru?

Born in 1938 in Sapporo, Hokkaido (home to one of Japan’s top boiler equipment firms), Tokui is the youngest of nine siblings. He graduated from Kokugakuin University, married his wife Fumiko, and opened “Bahha Coffee” in his current hometown. Since 1972, he has been roasting coffee himself and has traveled to more than 60 coffee-producing countries as well as various destinations in Europe and the Americas. Since 2009, he has served as Vice President of the Japan Specialty Coffee Association. His published works include Expert-Guided Gourmet Coffee and The Coffee Tasting Bible. It’s estimated that over 95% of Chinese coffee roasters reference his books.

BARISTA COFFEE ROASTERS (NetQin Location)

At BARISTA COFFEE ROASTERS, Tokui and his team sampled a range of coffees and discussed roast development. The group carefully examined the beans’ roast degree, noting how it influenced flavor profiles. The visit highlighted the importance of roast precision in bringing out origin characteristics—a theme echoed throughout the tour.

Real Coffee (Drum Tower Area)

Real Coffee, a cafe frequently featured in major coffee publications, welcomed Tokui with a welcoming atmosphere. Two baristas served him, and the group paid close attention to the pour-over process. Tokui remarked that “good coffee brings people together,” underscoring Real Coffee’s mission to foster genuine connection—a sentiment that resonated deeply with the visiting roaster.

Cafe Salon (Yan Dai Xie Jie)

The third stop, Cafe Salon, immediately drew attention with its prominent roasting machine and a striking Black Eagle grinder. Tokui and the cafe’s baristas posed for photos together. The visit emphasized the role of in-house roasting and equipment quality in crafting consistent, high-quality brews. The cafe’s setup reflects the technical dedication often seen in specialty coffee environments.

Analog (Nanluoguxiang)

Analog, whose name is interpreted as “original” or “unmodified,” focuses on showcasing coffee’s true origin flavors with minimal interference. The shop’s owner wears multiple hats—as proprietor, roaster, and barista—and is described as a highly individualistic operation. During the visit, Tokui led a discussion on coffee profiles, while the cafe’s barista prepared a carefully brewed pour-over. The emphasis here was on preserving the “regional taste” and returning to coffee’s essential character.

What Is Specialty Coffee?

Specialty coffee refers to beans grown in ideal environments that produce distinctive, high-quality flavors due to unique soil and climate conditions. These beans are used to craft beverages—primarily via pour-over methods—to highlight their intrinsic profiles. Unlike mass-market coffee, specialty coffee is free from negative health impacts and can be beneficial when consumed in moderation.

The Role of the Coffee Professional

Throughout the tour, Tokui emphasized that a great coffee bean requires a skilled professional to maximize its potential. The barista plays a crucial role in this process, needing extensive practice, tasting experience, and deep knowledge of coffee. For China’s specialty coffee scene to thrive, continuous learning and skill development among baristas are essential.

Frequently Asked Questions

Who is Tokui Mamoru?

Tokui Mamoru is a Japanese coffee expert born in 1938 in Sapporo, Hokkaido. He has been roasting coffee since 1972, visited over 60 coffee-producing countries, and has authored influential books such as Expert-Guided Gourmet Coffee and The Coffee Tasting Bible. Since 2009, he has served as Vice President of the Japan Specialty Coffee Association.

Which Beijing coffee shops did Tokui visit?

Tokui visited five Beijing coffee shops: BARISTA COFFEE ROASTERS (NetQin location), Real Coffee in the Drum Tower area, Cafe Salon at Yan Dai Xie Jie, Analog in Nanluoguxiang, and other notable locations. Each visit focused on roast profiles, brewing techniques, and the barista’s role.

What is the significance of roast degree in specialty coffee?

Roast degree significantly influences a coffee’s flavor profile by affecting the development of origin characteristics. Tokui emphasized the importance of precise roasting to highlight the unique qualities of specialty beans during his shop visits.

How does Analog define its approach to coffee?

Analog interprets its name as “original” or “unmodified,” focusing on maximizing the coffee’s inherent regional flavors with minimal processing. The shop emphasizes preserving the “regional taste” and returning to coffee’s essential, authentic character.

Why are baristas critical in specialty coffee?

Baristas are essential because they bring out the best in high-quality beans through technique, experience, and knowledge. Tokui highlighted that a skilled barista is key to transforming excellent beans into exceptional cups, making continuous training vital for the specialty coffee industry.

Recommended FrontStreet Beans for Specialty Brewing

For exploring specialty coffee profiles similar to those tasted in Beijing, try FrontStreet’s PWN Golden Mandheling for deep, syrupy body with herbal and dark chocolate notes; Brazil Queen Manor for balanced nutty and cacao tones with sweet caramel undertones; and Ethiopia Huakui for vibrant tropical fruit aromas with juicy, low-bitterness sweetness. These beans showcase the origin-focused philosophy Tokui Mamoru emphasized during his Beijing cafe visits. Freshly roasted within 5 days · Orders placed before 17:00 ship the same day · Next-day delivery across most of Guangdong Province.