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Forum | Lai Yuquan: coffee flavor trend

Published: 2024-11-17 Author: World Gafei

Last Updated: 2024/11/17, Have you ever thought about where you are in the coffee wave? Farmer is a writer, they write a screenplay with God, Roaster is the director, they interpret and translate, even the screenwriter, the bar player (Barista / Brewer) is the actor, responsible for singing the whole play well, the consumer (Customer) is the audience, he

Have you ever thought about

Where do you stand in the coffee wave?

Farmer is a writer who wrote a play with God.

Roaster are directors. They interpret and translate, and even write writers.

The bar player (Barista / Brewer) is an actor who sings the whole play well.

Consumers (Customer) are spectators who spend money on tickets in order to get the best experience and enjoyment.

In today's space, let's go into the world of bakers and talk about the chemical changes between flavors.

A brief introduction to the speakers

Lai Yuquan (Jacky Lai)

Award-winning:

2014 champion of Taiwan baking trials

2014 WCEC World Coffee Baking Championship.

Create:

2011 to create a natural wake-up coffee market.

2012 set up coffee chain store

2014 cooperate with CHAOCHEF to promote education, exhibition shop consultant

2015 Chairman of Kaohsiung Coffee and Tea Promotion Association

2016 established Yuxin Food Co., Ltd.

2017 Shanghai, China cooperates to establish CHAOCHEF extension Education Center

2017 Kunshan Olympic Bakery, China, SC Baking Bean Factory.

Academic experience:

International judges of Hong Kong COFFEE POWER Coffee Roasting Competition 2014-2015

Taiwan judges of 2015 WCE World Coffee Roasting Competition

Taiwan presiding judge of 2016 WCE World Coffee Roasting Competition

SCAA American Fine Coffee Association Certified Coffee Cup Test Review

CQI International Coffee quality appraiser (Q-Grader)

SCAA American Fine Coffee Association and certified lecturers

SCAE European boutique coffee association authorized qualified training lecturer

SCAE examiner of coffee bean roasting

SCAE examiner of grinding and extraction discipline.

01.

The change and evolution of coffee flavor

The first wave of boutique coffee in 1960, everyone had coffee.

one

In the early days, the United States was a British colony. Some people said that the coffee at that time was called Cowboy Coffee (cowboy coffee), which was so shallow that the cowboy drank it as water. It was not until the "Boston Tea incident" in 1773 that Americans pretended to be Indians and pushed tea into the Boston Gulf to tell the world that the United States was going to be independent and that they were going to have their own drinks. Three slightly addictive drinks are the most popular in the world: wine, tea and coffee. At first, people did not attach so much importance to the roasting of coffee, only asking for coffee to drink, so at that time, it was basically the degree of cinnamon roasting, and everyone drank it very comfortably.

(the picture is from the Internet)

The second wave of boutique coffee in 1980, everyone has "familiar" coffee to drink.

two

Until one day, Starbucks appeared, it respected deep-roasted coffee, friends who have learned to roast know that coffee beans will have "weightlessness" in the roasting process, as the temperature of coffee beans increases, the volume increases and the mass decreases, so brewing a cup of coffee with the same gram, the number of deep-roasted beans will be more than that of light-roasted beans. At that time, deep-roasted coffee was popular not only for its rich taste, but also because it was "cheap and big bowl". Starbucks used this method to educate people all over the world that deep-roasted coffee was good. So the second wave of boutique coffee appeared, and its "replicability" is strong. Take Starbucks as an example, there are so many chain stores around the world that people can drink coffee with almost the same quality and flavor in every corner of the world. let everyone have "familiar" coffee.

(Photographed at Shanghai Starbucks Sinan Mansion Selection Store)

2000 The third wave of fine coffee focused on origin and flavor

The third wave of fine coffee appeared in 2000 years, focusing on the flavor of coffee producing area, micro-terrain conditions and processing methods, and then derived from the roasting style of research roasters. This is the turning point of specialty coffee, people are no longer satisfied with just "can drink", but "can drink".

(the picture is from the Internet)

The fourth wave of boutique coffee in 2020? "Home Barista", boutique coffee comes into the family

four

Everyone is guessing what the fourth wave of boutique coffee will be, and I boldly assume that it should be "Home Barista" (the maker of family coffee) to really bring boutique coffee into the family. Nowadays, the coffee utensils on the market are getting more and more beautiful, the roaster is getting better and better, the function is more and more perfect, and there is no lack of beauty while easy to operate. This is the perfect interpretation and development of life aesthetics and boutique coffee, and I believe this is the fourth wave of boutique coffee-bringing boutique coffee into everyone's home, not just in cafes.

(the picture is from the Internet)

02.

The reasons for the difference in coffee quality

Ka Nong

FARMER

In the past, no one paid attention to the post-processing of coffee, but now the popular feeling of "sun-dried beans" was synonymous with inferior products in the past. As the saying goes, "everything is inferior, but only washing is high." only bad beans are used for sun tanning, so the sun quality in the past was quite unstable. With the continuous learning of refined processing, there are gradually "micro-batches". It is precisely because these "micro-batches" have created many incredible flavors that Ka farmers want to increase their output and make the same flavor through induction and improvement. so that more people can drink. So the technology of Ka Nong has improved, so that the quality of our coffee is completely different from that before.

(photo taken at the sun field of Pu'er Elephant Manor in Yunnan Province)

Quality management

QUALITY CONTROL

This refers to the people who manage the quality of coffee, for example, there are several cup testers in each store, whose duty is to make a professional and fair evaluation of each type of beans in the store. Because of these people's control over the quality of coffee, as a result, we have become more and more demanding of coffee.

(the picture is from the Internet)

Baker / roaster

ROASTER

With more and more assistance from advanced technology, coffee has more possibilities. For example, today's roasters are not very good at scorching the silver skin, which may be disagreed with you, but in the early days, when we were learning to bake, we must have heard the teacher say "open the wind door" in order to remove the silver skin. In the past, the roaster was not so perfect. If the silver skin was not removed, it would be left in the boiler and scorched, resulting in a smoky smell. Today's roaster will not have this kind of trouble, equipment improvement and progress, so that our coffee is also moving towards a more stable quality.

(the picture is from the Internet)

Barista / extractor

BARISTA & BREWER

The change in the concept of baristas will also affect the room for coffee progress. No one used EK43 to grind beans before. A bean grinder is so expensive, when can it be earned back? in the past, the definition of bean grinder was only "crush coffee beans." But now it seems that a barista needs an EK43 to make coffee, and everyone is in pursuit of good equipment. For example, when I was a barista, a guest once ordered a cup of Blue Mountain, but the Blue Mountain in the store had been sold out. He said that he would bake the raw beans after they were sold out. I said there were no raw beans. We only had Colombia, but he told me, "Yes, how can there be no?" shallow baking is Blue Mountain, medium baking is Colombia, and deeper baking is Mantenin. Right now, it's a joke, but when we don't know much about coffee, it will relatively affect the brewers. So the progress of baristas also allows consumers to drink better coffee.

(the picture is from the Internet)

Guest / consumer

CUSTOMER

Ten years ago, if a guest came to your store to order a cup of hand flush, you might have been excited to fly. Today, guests will not only ask you to use V60 or Kalita extraction, but also pay attention to the sun, washing and production area flavor. Our guests are also changing, so we have higher requirements for the ability and knowledge of baristas.

(the picture is from the Internet)

03.

Baking-the method of changing flavor

The temperature when the beans are poured into the boiler is called "bean temperature", and the turning point is called "TP". With the rise of the baking curve, it will go through the "evaporation period", then enter the "caramelization reaction period" and "Mena reaction period", and finally enter the "development period". So in the whole baking process, what factors will affect its flavor?

Baking depth

The roasting degree of a cup of coffee will affect the performance of its flavor and style due to the different heating of coffee beans. When we pursue the chocolate and caramel flavor of coffee, we will not roast lightly, on the contrary, we will not use deep roasting when we need flower aroma and fruit flavor. The depth of roasting is the easiest way to change the flavor of coffee.

The total baking time

Many people say that the total baking time will affect the acidity or weightlessness of coffee, but its real meaning is to observe which stage of time you need to spend, the "evaporation period" takes more time than the "development period". Or the "development period" accounts for more than half of the total baking time, which is huge for coffee flavor.

The duration of baking development

The so-called "baking development period" refers to the stage from the explosion to the pot, and the length of the development period will also affect the performance of coffee flavor. Nowadays, when some people play games, they will use very shallow beans to extract Espresso. Instead, they will win prizes because although the beans are shallow, their development period is very long. Coffee has two undesirable flavors, one is "raw" and the other is "smoked". When our coffee beans are sandwiched, there will be similar "vegetable bitterness", which is that the organic acid has not been completely decomposed, so please extend the development period a little longer.

The period of development is like the placement of fruit, the green stage of fruit is like the first stage of development, when we place it for a few days, the fruit begins to ripen, and the sweetness and aroma begin to increase, just like the middle of the development period. in the latter part of the aroma you will find some aromas of wine, even berries. However, the longer the period of development, the better, because too long will erase a lot of flavor of beans.

Configuration of firepower / throttle

There are three popular baking methods for baking circles: Nordic baking, Japanese baking and random baking (joking).

Here, take the shallow baking of "Nordic" as an example, why do Nordic people often use "big firepower, high wind gate" to bake beans so shallow, and why do they have such a strong tolerance for "acid"? The reason is that northern Europe is too cold to produce fruit, and the fruit is shipped from tropical countries to northern Europe when it is still raw, so the fruit they eat is placed from green to ripe, so the acidity will be very high. So Nordic people are used to having high acidity in coffee or fruit. So the shallow baking of "Fire, Wind Gate" is a suitable baking degree for them, because it can retain enough acid.

Rising temperature slope ROR value

The slope of temperature rise (Rate of Rise), or ROR for short, is the rate of heating per minute. From the baking curve, the higher the slope of the curve, the faster the heating rate, the coffee flavor is more lively, on the contrary, if the ROR value is relatively low, you will find that this cup of coffee tastes calmer, such as Japanese roasting. Therefore, by changing the temperature slope, we can also bring different changes to the coffee.

The difference between inside and outside of bean color

When we bake a cup of coffee, the difference between the color of the bean surface and the color of the bean core brings different levels and changes to the coffee. It's like frying a steak. when the steak is ready, increase the firepower, scorch the skin, enlarge its Mena reaction and caramelization reaction, and the steak will be delicious and crispy. There is another "crisp fattening method", which wraps the meat in vacuum and soaks it in 60 degrees water for a day or so. When you take it out, the whole meat is equally cooked, soft, tender and delicious. So today's baking idea is that we don't have to use the Nordic "fire" method, but we can also use the Japanese "crisp fertilizer" method, each of which has its own flavor, and how to use it flexibly and show its different flavor is what we need to think about.

Drum speed

There are three modes of heat conduction in baking: convection conduction, contact conduction and radiation conduction, which correspond to three different roasters-hot air type, semi-hot air type and direct fire type. When the speed of the drum is slow, the bean stays on the wall of the pot for a longer time, and the effect of heat conduction becomes longer, so the speed of the drum will change the heat conduction structure of baking.

(photo source: Jacky Lai)

04.

Mena reaction period

The period when the Mena reaction began to unfold (from the beginning of the yellowing of the beans to the time it came out of the pot, the Mena reaction was carried out, but only an explosion was measured during baking)

The beans begin to turn yellow, producing the smell of straw

An amazing series of complex chemical reactions take place.

Melanoid begins to form, in addition to other volatile and non-volatile aromatic substances that produce amino acids and begin Stryker degradation. If the reaction time at this stage is short, it will result in a decrease in the thickness and complexity of low alcohols. If the reaction time at this stage is longer, there will be a thick alcohol thickness, that is, an increase in flavor.

05.

The development period of baking

We can use the baking rhythm to establish the pressure in the raw bean and adjust the baking time. We can use the concept of scale to use pressure to control the chemical reaction to achieve the desired flavor.

Fast baking: compress the time history of Mena reaction and development period, therefore, the efficiency of Mena reaction is reduced, which may lead to insufficient complexity of coffee flavor; slow roasting: due to weak firepower, it takes enough time for chemical reactions to occur, and it may be necessary to appropriately increase the Mena reaction and the time of development, so as to contribute to the complexity of flavor.

The longer the development period, the lower the concentration of organic acids in coffee, when the softness and smoothness of coffee will increase, and we will drink bright acidity and fruit rhyme; if the development period is too short, there will be bitterness similar to metal or grass flavor. that is the organic acid is not completely decomposed, and excessive development will passivate the organic acid and dilute the vitality of the coffee.

The degradation of chlorogenic acid, citric acid and malic acid is accompanied by the production of a large amount of acetic acid to become the largest amount of organic acid, affecting the flavor of coffee.

06.

Two scoring tables for baking

Score Table of the World Bakery Competition

World Coffee Roasting Championship

Aroma of dried coffee powder: the richer the aroma, the better.

Coffee liquid flavor: the more taste changes, the better X2

After the entrance of coffee: stay as long as possible

Fine fruit acid: the more delicate the fruit acid, the better.

Mellow and fat: the smoother the mouth, the better.

Taste balance: the more balanced the sweet, sour and bitter, the better X2

Preference comprehensive evaluation: there is a positive correlation with the sum X2

American Bakery Association score Table

Roasters Guild Roast Evaluation Form

Aroma of dried coffee powder: the richer the aroma, the better / 2

Coffee liquid flavor: the more taste changes, the better / 2

After the entrance of coffee: stay as long as possible

Fine fruit acid: the finer the fruit acid, the better X2.

Mellow and fat: the smoother the mouth, the better X2.

Taste balance: the more balanced the sweet, sour and bitter, the better Sweetness X2

Comprehensive evaluation of preference: it has a positive correlation with the sum.

Let's sum up.

The item "X2" in the World Bakery score Table is currently the common standard for all world competitions, that is, to enhance the flavor, balance and comprehensive preference of coffee liquid, because the more balanced the coffee is, the more people will like it, which is a consideration of business orientation.

The American Baking Association's rating table divides the "dry aroma" and "liquid flavor" of coffee, saying that the aroma and flavor of coffee come from the taste of the beans themselves and have little to do with your roasting skills. So they pay more attention to the soft acidity, texture and sweetness of body, which will be magnified.

07.

Measurement of "radar map" by baking cup

"Radar Map" is a quick and effective cup table created by Jacky to memorize the flavor characteristics of beans. Through this table, we can find out the method of "flavor complementarity". It consists of six items: Flavor (aroma), Process (post-processing), Texture (body), Acidity (sour), Sweet (sweetness) and Aftertaste (afterrhyme).

When the coffee is hot, what we can remember is the aroma and aftertaste. At the same time, we can drink the post-processing method and roasting degree of the coffee. When the coffee is cold, we can remember the sour and body, and we can feel the sweetness at the same time. When we understand the different performances and sensory memory points of hot and cold coffee, if we are going to play a bean baking contest, you can let the judges find the sensory memory points that cold coffee should have while drinking hot coffee, and you will know which direction roasting should go.