Taiwan’s Alishan Coffee: A Natural Process Gem

When a former president of the Specialty Coffee Association of America took one sniff of a Taiwanese natural processed coffee and caught a whiff of over-fermented alcohol, he nearly dismissed it—until the first sip revealed a shockingly clean, juicy fruit profile with zero off-notes. That cup turned his doubt into praise, calling it “amazing” with “great body and a long finish.” That coffee was from Alishan, Taiwan—and it’s changing the global conversation about where great coffee can grow.

Taiwan’s Alishan coffee earned a stunning 11th place in the 2009 SCAA competition, making it the highest-ranked Asian single origin at the time. Later lots scored over 84.67, even rivaling Kenya AA. This high-altitude, organic-grown Typica produces nuanced citrus, molasses, and tea-like qualities, especially in well-executed natural lots.

Why Alishan Was Overlooked for Over a Century

Coffee came to Taiwan in 1884, planted by the British, but for more than a century it remained obscure. The island endured wars, neglect, and the devastating 921 earthquake without ever focusing seriously on coffee production. Despite ideal conditions—elevation, climate, and soil similar to other global coffee-growing regions—Taiwan’s coffee industry didn’t begin to thrive until the early 2000s.

The Rise of Taiwan’s Specialty Coffee Scene

By 2009, Taiwan finally made its mark. The same year, Alishan coffee ranked 11th in the SCAA competition, the best result ever achieved by an Asian single origin. Then came more breakthroughs: in 2014, Tropical Melody Farm in Alishan scored 84.67 in CQI Q Grader evaluations, beating many global competitors. The following year, the score rose further beyond 85. These results put Taiwan—and especially Alishan—on the map for serious coffee professionals.

What Makes Alishan Coffee So Special?

Alishan coffee is grown at around 1,200 metres above sea level on low-yield Typica trees. The farm uses organic practices certified by US authorities, and employs crop rotation and shade-grown methods with citrus and longan trees. All of this contributes to a unique cup: complex, tea-like, with bright citrus acidity and a lingering, tea-like aftertaste reminiscent of oolong. The 2009 lot that stunned Peter Giuliano was a natural process batch, showcasing the terroir’s potential when handled with care.

The People Behind the Bean

The beans were grown by Li Gaoming, an entrepreneur from Tainan, and processed using sustainable, organic methods. They were then roasted by Chen Zhihuang, the 2013 Nordic Roasters Cup champion, using a small M3 roaster with a high-heat Nordic-style roast that brought out reported notes of molasses and even sugarcane. The limited production—only 2.5 hectares are harvested, yielding just 500kg of cherries per hectare—makes these beans exceptionally rare.

How to Brew Alishan Natural Process Coffee

This lot was brewed using a flannel drip (Kyusu style) with a slightly coarser grind due to the thick fabric. The brewer used water at around 90°C. Key elements that stood out: a surprising umami-like depth, a green tea-like base, and vivid citrus acidity that hit mid-palate before fading cleanly. The aftertaste lingered for over 10 minutes with a tea-like sweetness—not typical coffee bitterness—reminiscent of high-mountain oolong. The mouthfeel was pure, the acidity distinct yet balanced, and the finish remarkably soothing.

Frequently Asked Questions

Where is Alishan coffee grown and at what elevation?

Alishan coffee is grown in the Alishan region of Taiwan, typically at elevations around 1,200 metres above sea level. The high altitude contributes to slower cherry maturation and more complex flavours in the cup.

What coffee variety is used in Alishan?

The primary variety grown in Alishan is Typica, known for its delicate cup profile and lower yield. It is well-suited to the cool, high-elevation conditions of the region.

How did Alishan coffee perform in international competitions?

In 2009, Alishan coffee placed 11th in the SCAA competition—the highest ranking ever achieved by an Asian single origin at that time. Later CQI evaluations scored the beans as high as 84.67 and even above 85, putting them in league with respected global coffees like Kenya AA.

What processing method was used in the award-winning Alishan lot?

The lot that impressed US coffee experts was processed using the natural (dry) method. This enhances fruity and fermented notes, and when done well—as in this case—delivers a clean, layered cup without off-flavours.

Why is Alishan coffee so rare?

Alishan coffee comes from a very limited growing area of just 2.5 hectares, with a yield of only 500kg of cherries per hectare. The batch highlighted in the article was also roasted by a world champion roaster in very small batches, adding to its exclusivity.

What does Alishan natural process coffee taste like?

Expect a tea-like base with bright citrus acidity, molasses sweetness, hints of sugarcane, and a long, smooth aftertaste reminiscent of oolong tea. The cup is clean, layered, and unusually refreshing for a natural processed coffee.

Recommended FrontStreet Beans for Natural Process Fans

If you love the complexity of natural process coffees like Alishan, try FrontStreet Coffee’s Ethiopia Humbera—renowned for its strawberry, citrus, guava, and mango notes with a rich tropical fruit profile. For something cleaner but still vibrant, their Rwanda Red Bourbon offers juicy acidity with notes of citrus, almond, and honey. Both showcase the kind of bright, layered fruitiness that makes naturals like Alishan so special. Freshly roasted within 5 days · Orders placed before 17:00 ship the same day · Next-day delivery across most of Guangdong Province.