Taiwan’s Coffee Prince and His Award-Winning Highland Farm

When coffee enthusiasts ask how Taiwan manages to produce world-class specialty coffee beans in high-altitude mountain regions, one name consistently surfaces: Leye Zou Zhuyuan, a 1,200-metre-high coffee farm in Alishan formerly covered in tea bushes. Run by farmer and multiple-award-winning processor Fang Zhenglun, this hillside operation has become synonymous with Taiwan’s most stable, high-scoring naturals and honeys. But what exactly makes his coffee so reliably excellent?

The short answer: over 15 years of obsessive experimentation with processing methods, strict attention to detail, and a relentless focus on quality—resulting in top-three or -five finishes in nearly every Taiwanese coffee competition. His naturals regularly score higher than many washed coffees, thanks to precise control over fermentation and drying.

A Farm Transformed: From Tea to Coffee and Beyond

Leye Zou Zhuyuan sits at 1,200 metres elevation in Alishan Township. Originally a tea plantation owned by Fang Zhenglun’s father, the land now hosts coffee trees, tea bushes, and orchid gardens—alongside a growing camping business. The transformation began in 1997 when Fang’s father, curious about diversification, planted coffee. By 2001, the trees bore fruit, and Fang—then living in Taipei—returned to help and took an interest. His curiosity quickly turned into a passion.

The Accidental Champion: Taiwan’s First Coffee Competition Victory

In 2007, Taiwan held its first-ever national coffee competition. Though self-described as an “outsider” at the time, Fang Zhenglun entered—and won first place. “My processing wasn’t great, but the terroir helped, the beans were good, and there were few flaws,” he recalls. He admits his technique was far from today’s standards, but that win ignited his drive. “It gave me confidence. I realised coffee was something worth diving into.”

The Learning Curve: Adapting Processing to Highland Conditions

Despite the early victory, Fang’s confidence was shaken in 2008–2010 when his entries dropped out of the top 10. He realised the industry was evolving, and standing still meant falling behind. So, starting in 2012, he focussed intensely on post-harvest processing. Early attempts to apply Hawaiian processing parameters failed; the cooler, high-altitude climate of Alishan reacted differently than Hawaii’s tropical heat. “That’s why no one dares write a definitive book on coffee post-processing,” noted coffee expert Han Huaiyuan. “Conditions vary too much. What works in lowland Taiwan might not in Alishan.”

The Experimentation Model: Competitions as Feedback Loops

To refine his techniques, Fang turned to competitions. “They correct your process,” he explains. By submitting multiple lots with variations—different drying times, levels of fermentation, and methods—he learned what scored best. In a recent competition, he submitted eight lots: four washed (two with enzyme fermentation, two without), each with natural or mechanical drying; two honey processes (yellow and red); and two naturals—one fully dried, one with pre-crushed fruit. He even entered a honey lot into the washed category without anyone noticing—and it won praise for its cleanliness, proving his honey process matched washed-level clarity.

“You learn what your farm does best over time,” Fang says. “The goal is consistency. Overseas farms stick to one method for years because it produces a reliable profile. Here in Taiwan, everyone experiments, which leads to flavour variation.”

Natural Process Mastery: Clean, Sweet, and Fruit-Forward

Fang’s naturals have become his signature. While many producers reserve lower-quality beans for natural processing, Fang uses only the best. The result? A consistently high-scoring natural with remarkable cleanliness, body, and fruity sweetness—qualities often missing in flawed naturals. At a tasting session, all tasters favoured his natural over standard washed, honey, and even traditional sun-dried lots. “We’re after that sweet, wine-like character you get from proper natural fermentation,” Fang says. “But timing is everything. Too long and it turns sour or funky. That balance is what we’re chasing.”

Coffee authority Han Huaiyuan recalled that in 2013, during an international forum in Taiwan, the former SCAA president tasted six Taiwanese coffees and singled out Fang’s natural as the surprise winner. “He said it was so clean, he thought it was high-end Ethiopian natural,” Han said.

Beyond Processing: New Varieties and Future Plans

Fang continues pushing boundaries. Recently returned from Central America, he’s planning to build a medium-to-large-scale washed coffee facility—something rare in Taiwan. He’s also planted rare varieties including SL28-likeBourbon (Slim Bourbon), Costa Rica Geisha, and others that are just beginning to sprout. “If I can identify unique flavour profiles early, it adds to my knowledge base,” he says. “In a few years, you’ll see the results.”

He also experiments with fermentation science. “Fermentation is chemistry. Longer fermentation yields sweet wine notes, but push too far and it becomes vinegar. It’s a delicate balance.”

Before our visit, Fang prepared samples of washed, natural, and honey processed beans for us to taste. We bought out his entire stock of roasted coffee—and had him roast and deliver more the next day for our next destination.

Frequently Asked Questions

Where is Leye Zou Zhuyuan located and at what altitude?

Leye Zou Zhuyuan is located in Alishan Township, Taiwan, at an altitude of 1,200 metres above sea level. The high elevation contributes to slower cherry maturation and complex flavour development in the coffee beans.

What makes Fang Zhenglun’s coffee consistently award-winning?

Fang Zhenglun’s coffee wins awards due to his rigorous experimentation with processing methods, use of high-quality beans even for natural processing, and consistent refinement based on competition feedback. His lots often score in the top three or five in Taiwanese coffee competitions.

Which coffee processing methods does he experiment with?

Fang experiments with washed (including enzyme and non-enzyme fermented), honey (yellow and red), and natural processes. He also tries variations like pre-crushing fruit before drying and comparing natural vs. washed drying methods.

Has he won first place in Taiwan’s national coffee competitions?

Yes, Fang Zhenglun won first place in Taiwan’s first national coffee competition in 2007. Though he didn’t always win first afterwards, his coffees consistently placed in the top three to five.

What new coffee varieties has he planted recently?

Fang has planted rare varieties including Bourbon (Slim Bourbon), Costa Rica Geisha, and others. These are still in early growth stages but are part of his effort to discover unique flavour profiles suited to Alishan’s terroir.

Why does he enter different processing methods in the same competition?

Entering multiple lots under different processing styles allows Fang to compare scores and learn which methods work best for his farm’s conditions. He once submitted a honey-processed coffee into the washed category, which was mistaken for a washed lot and still won praise for its cleanliness.

FrontStreet Coffee Beans Similar to Leye Zou Zhuyuan’s Style

For fans of Leye Zou Zhuyuan’s clean, fruit-forward naturals, try FrontStreet Coffee’s Ethiopia Yirgacheffe – offering bright citrus, floral tones, and a juicy body. Also explore FrontStreet’s Ethiopia Huakui, known for its complex berry and stone fruit layers with a sweet, clean finish. Both share the high-altitude clarity and delicate fermentation finesse that define top Taiwanese naturals. Freshly roasted within 5 days · Orders placed before 17:00 ship the same day · Next-day delivery across most of Guangdong Province.