Coffee review

The Italian organic agronomist's trip to Hainan Mountain Coffee made him marvel at the charm of siphon coffee.

Published: 2025-08-21 Author: World Gafei
Last Updated: 2025/08/21, Rompuy tasted the waterfall coffee in Qiongzhong. Luo Pei inspected Yangshan Wetland in Haikou. In 2014, Ms. Gao Gao, founder of Squirrel School, a natural education institution in Haikou, went to Europe to study organic agriculture and got to know Mr. LorenzoPeris (Chinese name Lopei), an Italian organic agriculture expert. In early January this year, Mr. Lopei went to Shanghai to participate in organic agriculture.

Lopei tasted the waterfall coffee in Qiongzhong.

Luo Pei inspected Yangshan Wetland in Haikou. The picture of this edition is provided by "Squirrel School"

In 2014, Ms. Gao Gao, founder of Squirrel School, a nature education institution in Haikou, went to Europe to study organic agriculture and met Mr. LorenzoPeris (Chinese name "Lopei"), an Italian expert in organic agriculture.

In early January this year, Mr. Lopei went to Shanghai to attend a conference on organic agriculture and traveled to Hainan for a holiday from January 9 to 16, accompanied by colleagues from "Squirrel School" and asked him to give a lecture on organic agriculture.

What should organic agriculture look like in the eyes of Italian organic agriculture experts? What does he think of Hainan's fledgling organic agriculture? To this end, Hainan Weekly specially invited Ms. Gao Gao to write an article.

Standing under Feilongling Waterfall, looking up at the beautiful waterfall hanging high in the sky and falling hundreds of meters down, drinking black coffee grown and baked in the local semi-wild state, and then brewing black coffee with waterfall water, LorenzoPeris (Chinese name "Lopei"), an agricultural expert from Italy, said with emotion in Italian English: it's really a special place, and drinking coffee like this is a unique feeling I've never had before!

Mountain coffee

Impressed Lopei.

Feilongling Waterfall is located in Heping Town, Qiongzhong, but it is closer to the Xinglong tourist area in Wanning. The villagers here have a tradition of growing coffee, and the quality of the coffee is quite good. However, as an expert in promoting organic agriculture in the European Union, Africa and Asia for 24 years, Rompuy still has a lot of suggestions, such as organically grown coffee, although it is more expensive than ordinary coffee, but more and more consumers who pursue the quality of life are still willing to pay for it. Therefore, it is suggested that coffee farmers should strive towards organic cultivation and strive for internationally recognized organic certification. For example, Waterfall Coffee is a very rare experience, which can design unique travel routes for families and couples; and coffee-themed BeverB (a country accommodation with bed and breakfast) is very suitable for travelers who are interested in life, but be sure to pay attention to the quality of the room. It can be simple, but never shabby.

Huang Xiuwu, a coffee farmer in Changxing Village, nodded frequently, and Lian said he was deeply inspired. As the initiator of the village cooperative, he has always wanted to combine coffee culture with rural tourism, promote the waterfalls hidden in the mountains, and allow more people to come to their hometown and personally participate in the coffee-making process. Taste this semi-wild growth, high-quality coffee. However, the road is long, the transportation is inconvenient, the process of organic production is tedious and harsh, the road of organic certification is difficult and long, the villagers do not understand and disagree with it, and consumers do not understand and distrust organics. are the difficulties that Huang Xiuwu faces.

Lecture:

Organic Agriculture is related to Human Survival

At the public lecture site of "my Organic Story" hosted by Haikou Squirrel School and lectured by Lopei, bosses from organic tea production enterprises and ecological agricultural enterprises also raised similar puzzles to Luo Pei as Huang Xiuwu. In fact, even in Europe, the development of organic agriculture is not plain sailing, Loppe said. The development of organic agriculture in Italy is relatively good, and the price difference between organic agricultural products and ordinary agricultural products is not as huge as in China, which is only 20-30% expensive, but until today, Italian organic agricultural products only account for about 8% of the customary agricultural products.

The most powerful promoter of organic agriculture, in the European experience, is not the government, nor the farmers themselves, but the consumer behavior. Therefore, farmers who are interested in organic cultivation should pay special attention to communication and connection with consumers, and as consumers, they should also clearly realize that buying organic products and supporting organic agriculture is not only for today's food, but also for the survival of mankind in the future.

Is organic related to the survival of human beings? Yes, this is not alarmist talk. Lopei's speech began with soil, "paying attention to soil is the top priority of organic agriculture." Healthy soil has the vitality of life, can provide enough nutrients, but also contains a lot of organisms and microorganisms. The structure of healthy soil has three elements: stable detritus, many stomata, and good air permeability. But the use of pesticides and fertilizers will completely destroy the ecosystem, make the soil dry and firm, reduce stomata, lose the air permeability of the roots, and leave long-term damage to short-term high yields.

Although the damaged soil is not unrecoverable, just like people, it takes extra care after a serious injury and a long time of three to five years to restore vitality. This is why organic agriculture produces less and is more expensive than conventional agriculture. To choose to grow in an organic way is to choose a slow and meagre mode of production, which on the surface is absolutely not a cost-effective business. however, Luo Pei asked everyone: whether it is producers or consumers, is it more cost-effective to produce or buy food in a more expensive way, or is it more cost-effective to make a lot of money but have to give it to the hospital? All the audience laughed. Yes, in the face of the value of life, no matter how high the material cost is negligible.

Soil:

The foundation of organic agriculture

The agriculture in Hainan has its particularity, the climate is warm, the insect pests are serious, and the excessive pesticides and fertilizers are often reported. Everyone we meet is saying that there can be no organic agriculture in Hainan. On the one hand, conscientious and responsible farmers are working in an organic direction, but are beset with difficulties. On the other hand, consumers are full of misgivings about products on the market that are known as "organic" or "green ecology".

As Lopei pointed out, the crux of the smooth promotion of organic agriculture is actually the establishment of "TRUST". Only on the basis of trust can consumers buy agricultural products at ease and be willing to pay higher prices, and producers will be able to produce products that meet organic requirements and thus get good returns.

Whenever he walked into the village, Lopei would habitually ask, "what is it?" Do you use pesticides? " About the word "pesticide" has become obnoxious, and almost all people will answer "no". But Lopez always finds pesticide bags scattered in the fields easily, then picks them up, shrugs his shoulders and spreads his hands. Needless to say, Lopei has great doubts about the integrity of the villagers. This just shows that what is most lacking in the promotion of organic agriculture in Hainan is "integrity."

Soil is the material foundation of organic agriculture, and trust is the social basis for the development of organic agriculture. A society without trust, like a soil that overuses pesticides and fertilizers and overdraws its vitality, is barren and desolate. In a sense, promoting the development of organic agriculture can not only restore the vitality of the soil, but also rebuild the trust and harmonious social order.

How do you do this? To put it simply, a credible third party will be an important link to rebuild trust between consumers and producers. This certifier accepts the application of the producer, gives certification, and is responsible for supervision. In his speech, Rompuy mentioned several times an organization called IFOAM International Organic Agriculture Movement Alliance, which is headquartered in Germany and has been the most important, standard-formalized and influential organization in the world since it was founded in 1972. IFOAM has a rigorous organizational structure and operating rules, including the international conference, the world board of directors and the executive board, as well as more than a thousand members from more than a hundred countries. The Chinese certification body recognized by IFOAM is Nanjing Guohuan Organic products Certification Center (formerly the Inspection and Certification Department of the Organic Food Development Center of the State Environmental Protection Administration, referred to as OFDC). Producers strive for reputable certification, consumers recognize the signs for consumption, and trust is established in strict authentication and supervision. Perhaps, this is also the future road of Hainan agricultural products?

Worry:

Indifferent to chemical fertilizers and pesticides

When Lopei came to Hainan for the first time, as the host, we always wanted him to see something different. Yangshan Wetland is a big dish that we finally presented. Located in the ancient village of Nayang on the outskirts of Haikou, Lopei feels new about stone houses, stone bridges, women washing clothes by springs, ancient stone tablets and wonderful pastoral scenery, and the perfect combination of volcanoes and wetlands he has never seen before. However, people who wash clothes use chemical agents, and dirty water flows into the river without cover; the ridges of the fields are full of abandoned pesticide bags, which can be called an astonishing number; water cauliflower, a second-class national protected plant, lingers under the pressure of the exotic invasive species water hyacinth; in the pond, there are electric fish, while the pink follicles of another alien invasive species, Fushou snail, can be seen everywhere.

Yangshan wetland is the kidney of Haikou and the lung of Haikou. Whether the ecology of Yangshan wetland is good or not is directly related to the healthy life of millions of Haikou people. Over the past six months, Squirrel School has been committed to training Yangshan wetland guides, conducting public tour activities, enhancing public understanding of Yangshan wetland, and carrying out working holidays to clean up water hyacinth and protect cauliflower, but in the face of the deteriorating environment of Yangshan wetland, it is still not easy to solve the problem of falling in the bucket and long-term accumulation. In three words, Lopei pointed out that only by promoting organic matter more vigorously can Yangshan wetland be protected and this precious resource be preserved. First, let the villagers accept the organic way of life, reduce or even put an end to the use of chemical detergents, and switch to inexpensive and easy-to-use organic detergents. Second, farmers should be allowed to accept organic farming methods and reduce or even put an end to the use of pesticides and fertilizers, otherwise the health of the residents will be greatly harmed. Thirdly, and most importantly, we should mobilize public participation. Lopei also believes that it is necessary to carry out regular public welfare activities in the Yangshan wetland, allowing thousands of people to join in cleaning up alien species and protecting cauliflower, so as to produce significant social effects.

During a short six-day trip, Lopei traveled non-stop in Hainan to the highest village, the most beautiful tropical rain forest, the most primitive bay and the most unique volcanic wetland. He was amazed by the beauty of Hainan. But at the same time, he also has deep worries and anxieties. He says what is most disturbing is not the pesticides and fertilizers themselves, but the indifference and indifference of people to chemical agents even if they know the harm. "I am not afraid of problems, but I am afraid that I do not want to solve problems at all." In fact, this is a common concern of all.

LorenzoPeris

(Lopez)

Italian agronomist and promoter of Italian organic agriculture. He has worked in Africa for two years, has 24 years of organic planting experience, and is responsible for promoting organic certification at AIAB, the Italian organic certification body, as a senior consultant to AIAB.

Source: Hainan Daily

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