Veracruz’s Iconic Café: Barloa Gaya, A Coffee Institution

If you’re exploring Veracruz and a local asks if you’ve been to Barloa Gaya, and you say no—they’ll stare in disbelief. This isn’t just another café. For over a century, Barloa Gaya has been synonymous with Veracruz coffee culture. But here’s the twist: there are now two of them, locked in a friendly sibling rivalry that’s made both institutions legendary.

The short answer? Yes, you need to visit both Barloa Gaya cafés—one housed in a historic downtown building with faded photos of old Veracruz, the other facing the sea with a famed Italian-made copper coffee roaster said to make over 1,000 cups daily. Each offers a distinct vibe, but both serve strictly local Veracruz coffee, steamed with rich hybrid milk, and baked goods refined over generations.

The Century-Old Café That Split in Two

Barloa Gaya’s origin story begins with a patriarch who built a reputable coffee business in Veracruz over a century ago. After his passing, his son doubled the operation’s size and installed a massive, custom-made Italian copper coffee roaster—bright brass, imposing, and still in use today—that reportedly brews over 1,000 cups a day. This roaster became the café’s emblem.

Decades later, the grandson brothers had a falling out. In a dramatic split, the younger opened his own café, also named Barloa Gaya, just a few blocks away. Their battle even played out in court over who owned the iconic copper roaster. The judge awarded it to the younger brother. Today, Veracruz has two Barloa Gayas: the original in the city center, and the newer seaside branch.

Two Cafés, Two Experiences

The original Barloa Gaya sits prominently in central Veracruz. Locals, especially older residents, favor its nostalgic ambiance—think faded black-and-white photos of the city lining the walls, a throwback to another era. Tourists often start here, soaking in the historic photos while sipping coffee.

The newer branch, located along the scenic Camacho Street overlooking the ocean, appeals to a younger crowd with its modern architecture and harbor views. From your table, you can watch tankers come and go, see the red-roofed aquarium, and spot the lighthouse at the breakwater—where the author frequently goes fishing. Both cafés draw loyal followings, and many visitors make a point of trying both.

The Coffee That Started It All

Despite Mexico’s renowned coffee regions like Chiapas, Barloa Gaya sources its beans exclusively from Córdoba in Veracruz. These beans produce a cup with a sharp acidity and intense aroma—tailored to local palates. The coffee is brewed into espresso using the historic copper machine (at the original location), then mixed not with water, but with steaming milk from the café’s own farm. The milk comes from a carefully managed hybrid breed of Dutch and Mexican cows, with strict standards for fat content.

This milk-forward preparation elevates the drink far beyond instant coffee. The cafés also serve a range of drinks including classic Americano, Italian-style espresso, cappuccino, and the beloved Mexican-style Frappé coffee—a cold coffee topped with whipped cream, chocolate syrup, and three crispy ladyfingers, a hit with kids and women alike.

Desserts with Generational Pedigree

The pastries at both Barloa Gayas are no less carefully crafted. Many of the pastry chefs come from multi-generational baking families, with some recipes and techniques passed down through three generations. Even something as simple as a puff pastry or butterfly cookie is executed to an almost absurd level of delicate texture—so flaky it feels like it might crumble if held too firmly. Wages for these chefs are kept confidential, but one thing is clear: the attention to detail is exceptional.

An unusual feature: patrons are welcome to tap their coffee spoons against their cups to signal for a refill. The intensity and frequency of the taps communicate anything from “a little more, please” to “hurry up, I’m waiting.”

Frequently Asked Questions

What is Barloa Gaya?

Barloa Gaya is a historic café in Veracruz, Mexico, known for its century-old legacy and distinctive local coffee served with hybrid milk. It famously split into two locations: the original in central Veracruz, and a newer seaside branch on Camacho Street.

Why are there two Barloa Gaya cafés?

The two cafés exist due to a family split among the grandsons of the original owner. A legal battle awarded the iconic Italian copper coffee roaster to the younger brother, leading to the establishment of a second Barloa Gaya location with its own identity.

What kind of coffee does Barloa Gaya serve?

Barloa Gaya uses coffee beans sourced from Córdoba, Veracruz—known for their strong aroma and slight acidity. The coffee is prepared as espresso and mixed with steamed hybrid milk, not water, resulting in a richer, fuller cup.

What’s the deal with the Italian coffee roaster?

The original Barloa Gaya houses a massive, custom-built Italian copper coffee roaster, said to produce over 1,000 cups daily. It’s a centerpiece of the café and was at the center of a legal dispute between the two branches.

Do both cafés serve the same food and drinks?

Both serve similar drinks such as espresso, cappuccino, Americano, and a popular Mexican Frappé coffee, but each has its own take. The desserts, especially pastries, are made by generational bakers and have subtle differences between locations.

Which Barloa Gaya should I visit first?

Many visitors start with the original downtown café for its historic photos and classic vibe, then head to the seaside location for ocean views and the legendary copper coffee machine. Trying both offers the full experience.

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